Difference between revisions of "Archive:Denali 2011"

From VOC Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
(Update 4)
(Update 5)
Line 106: Line 106:
 
==Personal==
 
==Personal==
  
===Climbing/Mountaineering===
+
===Ski/Mountaineering===
  
* 1 Ice Axe w/ leash – General mountaineering tool.  
+
* 1 lightweight ice axe w/ leash – General mountaineering tool.  
 
* 1 pair of crampons – Compatible w/ ski boots (Tele or AT) and overboots
 
* 1 pair of crampons – Compatible w/ ski boots (Tele or AT) and overboots
* 1 Climbing helmet
+
* 1 climbing helmet
 
* Accessory Cord – for prussiks and other rigging (ie: sleds)
 
* Accessory Cord – for prussiks and other rigging (ie: sleds)
* 1 Alpine Climbing Harness
+
* 1 alpine Climbing Harness
 
* 2 prussiks
 
* 2 prussiks
 
* 2 small locking biners
 
* 2 small locking biners
Line 122: Line 122:
 
* Ice Screw(s) – and v-threader
 
* Ice Screw(s) – and v-threader
 
* Webbing
 
* Webbing
* Ascender – One right or left-handed. May be optional, there is a section of fixed ropes we could use at the headwall.
+
* 1 Ascender – One right or left-handed. May be optional, there is a section of fixed ropes we could use at the headwall.
* Touring Skis
+
* 1 pair of Touring Skis
* Ski Poles – can also be used as trekking poles
+
* 1 pair of Ski Poles – can also be used as trekking poles
* Climbing Skins
+
* 1 pair of Climbing Skins
* Avalanche Transceiver
+
* 1 Avalanche Transceiver
* Shovel
+
* 1 Shovel
* Avalanche Probe
+
* 1 Avalanche Probe
  
 
===Footwear===
 
===Footwear===
  
* Ski Boots
+
* 1 pair of Ski Boots
* Fully Insulated Overboots – must work with crampons, need to check if they work with Tele-boots
+
* 1 pair of fully insulated overboots – must work with crampons, need to check if they work with Tele-boots ([http://www.40below.com/products_Results_overboots.php?CategoryName=overboots 40Below])
* Gaiters – for lower on the mountain
+
* 1 pair of gaiters – for lower on the mountain
* Heavyweight Socks – a few pairs
+
* 2 pairs of Heavyweight Socks
* Liner Socks – a few pairs
+
* 2 pairs of liner Socks
* Vapour Barrier Socks
+
* 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Socks
* Camp Booties
+
* 1 pair of Camp Booties
  
 
===Technical Clothing===
 
===Technical Clothing===
Line 147: Line 147:
 
* 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Top – synthetic or wool
 
* 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Top – synthetic or wool
 
* 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Bottom – synthetic or wool
 
* 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Bottom – synthetic or wool
* 1 Soft Shell Jacket – midweight or heavyweight
+
* 1 Soft Shell Jacket w/ hood – midweight or heavyweight
 
* 1 Soft Shell Pants – midweight or heavyweight  
 
* 1 Soft Shell Pants – midweight or heavyweight  
 
* 1 Hard Shell jacket w/ hood – waterproof, breathable
 
* 1 Hard Shell jacket w/ hood – waterproof, breathable
Line 154: Line 154:
 
* 1 Down Pants or Insulated Synthetic Pant – to fit over insulation layers
 
* 1 Down Pants or Insulated Synthetic Pant – to fit over insulation layers
  
==Headwear==
+
===Headwear===
  
 
* 1 Toque – should cover ears
 
* 1 Toque – should cover ears
Line 166: Line 166:
 
* 1 Ski Goggles – 100% UVA and UVB
 
* 1 Ski Goggles – 100% UVA and UVB
  
==Handwear==  
+
===Handwear===  
  
 
* 1 Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves
 
* 1 Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves
Line 173: Line 173:
 
* 1 Lightweight Synthetic Gloves - for ski touring and sun protection
 
* 1 Lightweight Synthetic Gloves - for ski touring and sun protection
  
==Personal Equipment==
+
===Personal Equipment===
 
   
 
   
 
* 1 Expedition Backpack (+80L)
 
* 1 Expedition Backpack (+80L)
 
* 1 Expedition Duffle Bag – for travelling and for the sled
 
* 1 Expedition Duffle Bag – for travelling and for the sled
 +
* 1 skiing sled – may come free with glacier flight
 +
** Champagne + Laura: talked to Pete Hudson and has two spare sleds we can use.
 
* 1 Expedition Sleeping Bag – -30*C rating or better
 
* 1 Expedition Sleeping Bag – -30*C rating or better
 +
* 1 Vapour Barrier Liner - prevents condensation in sleeping bag
 
* Compression Stuff Sacks
 
* Compression Stuff Sacks
* 2 Sleeping Pad – Closed cell foam or inflatable (or both)
+
* 1 or 2 Sleeping Pad(s) – Closed cell foam or inflatable (or both)
** 1 flood tent EVA closed cell foam pad (3 mm (1/8') thickness)
+
* Eating Gear – bowl and spoon/spork
+
* Sunscreen – strong SPF, enough for 3 weeks, Lipscreen too
+
* 2 Water Bottles – Wide mouth to avoid freezing (ie: Nalgene)
+
* 2 Water Bottle Parkas – insulated to prevent freezing
+
* 1 Pee Bottle – Wide mouth (for obvious reasons…), marked so you don’t drink from it
+
* 1 Pee Funnel – if you’re a girl (ie: Freshette)
+
* 1 Multitool with knife – tough, small, functional, and simple
+
* 1 Toiletry Bag – the basics: toothpaste, toothbrush, baby wipes, 3 weeks of toilet paper
+
* 1 Hand Sanitizer – or something similar
+
 
* 2 Emergency Hand warmers and Toe Warmers – just in case…
 
* 2 Emergency Hand warmers and Toe Warmers – just in case…
 
* Trash Compactor bag(s) – tough, heavy bag(s) with many uses
 
* Trash Compactor bag(s) – tough, heavy bag(s) with many uses
 
* 1 Camera gear – light and simple, we probably don’t all need it
 
* 1 Camera gear – light and simple, we probably don’t all need it
* Few Books – so we don’t go insane
 
* 1 iPod – so we don’t go insane, only works if we can charge them
 
 
* 1 Headlamp – mostly for drive up, there’s sun around the clock in the Arctic
 
* 1 Headlamp – mostly for drive up, there’s sun around the clock in the Arctic
 +
* American money - Lots of good gear deals to be found on Denali
 +
 +
===Toiletry===
 +
 +
* 1 Toothbrush
 +
* 1 tube of toothpaste (for 30 days)
 +
* Dental floss
 +
* TP (for 30 days)
 +
* 1 lighter
 +
* 1 Hand Sanitizer
 +
* Sunscreen +30 SPF (for 30 days)
 +
* 1 Lip balm w/ +30 SPF
 +
* 1 Hand moisturizer w/ Aloe
 +
* Baby wipes
 +
* 1 Pee Funnel – if you’re a girl (ie: Freshette)
 +
* 1 Pee Bottle – Wide mouth (for obvious reasons…), marked so you don’t drink from it
 +
 +
===Eating/drinking gear===
 +
 +
* 1 Bowl/measuring cup (i.e. GSI Fair Share Mug)
 +
* 1 insulated EVA closed foam for bowl/measuring cup
 +
* 1 spoon (or spork)
 +
* 1 small knife (or multitool)
 +
* 2 Water Bottles – Wide mouth to avoid freezing (ie: Nalgene)
 +
* 2 Water Bottle Parkas – insulated to prevent freezing
 +
 +
===Travelling (Road Trip)===
  
==Travelling (Road Trip)==
 
 
* Travel Clothes – clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition
 
* Travel Clothes – clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition
 
* Backpack or small duffel – for travelling or to store personal stuff in Talkeetna while climbing
 
* Backpack or small duffel – for travelling or to store personal stuff in Talkeetna while climbing
  
==First Aid==
+
===First Aid===
  
* Personal First-Aid Kit – Aspirin, band-aids, moleskin, etc…
+
* 1 small personal First-Aid Kit – Aspirin, band-aids, moleskin, etc…
* Drugs, Acetazolamide, Dexamethasone, etc…
+
  
 
==Group==
 
==Group==
  
* Expedition Tents – 4 season expedition tents, probably 2
+
===Ski/Mountaineering===
 +
 
 +
* 2 4-Season Expedition Tents
 
** Champagne - MWH Trango 2
 
** Champagne - MWH Trango 2
* Sleds – may come free with glacier flight
+
* 1 cooking tent (Champagne ?)
** Champagne + Laura: talked to Pete Hudson and has two spare sleds we can use.
+
* 2 flood tent EVA closed cell foam pad (3 mm (1/8') thickness)
 +
** Intuition or 40Below
 
* Large Compression Sacks – for making caches
 
* Large Compression Sacks – for making caches
* Rope – probably 1 half, maybe 2
+
* Ropes – probably 1 half, maybe 2
 
** Champagne: 30m Beal Rando 8mm twin rope (Dry treated)
 
** Champagne: 30m Beal Rando 8mm twin rope (Dry treated)
 
** Jeff: 60m 8mm rope  
 
** Jeff: 60m 8mm rope  
 
* Wands
 
* Wands
* Stoves – 2 or 3, white gas,interchangeable, must work in cold, wind, high altitude (ie: WhisperLite, SimmerLite, etc)
+
* Black Diamond Skin Globstopper (Champagne)
** Champagne: MSR XGK stove
+
 
** Jeff: MSR WhisperLite stove
+
===Navigation===
* Cooking Gear – probably just pots
+
 
* Food – for 3 weeks plus, variation, mix of enjoyable, efficient, fun, etc; should be dried and lightweight
+
* 1 GPS
* Group First Aid Kit – larger, more complete
+
* 1 SPOT Satellite Messenger (Champagne)
* SPOT (Champagne)
+
 
** Need to look into getting GEOS coverage.
 
** Need to look into getting GEOS coverage.
* GPS
+
* 4 Radios – each person should have one
* Radios – each person should have one
+
 
* Batteries – for everything, for 3 weeks
 
* Batteries – for everything, for 3 weeks
* Entertainment – cards, chess, checkers…etc; maybe a solar charger for iPods…
+
* 1 Solar charger (Champagne)
 +
* 1 compass w/ inclinometer
 +
* 1 altimeter
 +
* 4 whistles - one each
 +
* Maps
 +
* Guidebook(s)
 +
 
 +
===Cooking===
 +
 
 +
* 3 High-Altitude Stoves, white gas,interchangeable, must work in cold and wind(ie: XGK, WhisperLite, SimmerLite, etc)
 +
** Champagne: MSR XGK stove w/ MSR XGK (1) & WhisperLite (1) maintenance kits
 +
** Jeff: MSR WhisperLite stove
 +
** Duncan: MSR WhisperLite Stove
 +
* Lighters
 +
** Champagne: 1 Primus Ignition Steel Fire Starter
 +
* 3 MSR Heat Exchangers (Champagne)
 +
* 3 MSR Windscreens
 +
** Champagne: 1
 +
* Pots
 +
** Champagne: MSR Exo 2 Pot
 +
* 2 MEC Hot Pot Cookwear insulator (Champagne)
 +
* 3 stove snow platforms
 +
** Champagne: 1 Wilderness Concepts MSR WhisperLite snow platform
 +
* White Gas (TBD)
 +
* 1 GSI Compact Scraper (Champagne)
 +
* 1 Large capacity (10L) water bladder
 +
* 1 Black plastic bag for snow melting
 +
* Pristine drops
 +
 
 +
===First Aid===
 +
 
 +
* 1 larger group First-Aid Kit (TBD)
 +
* Drugs: Acetazolamide, Dexamethasone, etc…
 +
 
 +
===Entertainment===
 +
 
 +
* 1 deck of cards (micro or Freedom of the hills (Champagne) ?)
 +
* 1 micro Chess board
 +
* 1 micro checkers board
 +
* 1 iPod w/ speakers
 +
* Books (War and Peace-style)
 +
 
 +
===Repair Kit===
 +
 
 +
* Voiles straps (TBD)
 +
 
 +
TBD
  
 
=Food=
 
=Food=
Line 240: Line 303:
 
* Duncan, Jeff and Champagne have participated in an ongoing [http://www.hkin.educ.ubc.ca/School/Poster_v3.pdf AMS susceptibility study] at UBC.
 
* Duncan, Jeff and Champagne have participated in an ongoing [http://www.hkin.educ.ubc.ca/School/Poster_v3.pdf AMS susceptibility study] at UBC.
 
* The researchers are interested in assisting the team with medical backup in return to doing some medical during the trip.
 
* The researchers are interested in assisting the team with medical backup in return to doing some medical during the trip.
* Will need to organize a meeting between both parties to see if we can make it happen.
 
** Champagne will email them.
 
 
* Extremely useful for grant applications.
 
* Extremely useful for grant applications.
 +
** Meeting will be either the 6<sup>th</sup>, 13<sup>th</sup> or 20<sup>th</sup> of January 2011 at 10am in the Wesbrook building
  
 
=Grants/fund raisers=
 
=Grants/fund raisers=

Revision as of 15:41, 22 December 2010

Team Details

Team VOC Hot Faff

  • Geoffrey Martin
  • Michael Duncan
  • Christian Champagne
  • Laura Morrison

Emergency Contact Info

Geoffrey Martin

Michael Duncan

Sylvia Duncan

Relationship: mother

Phone: (w) 604-530-1311 (h) 604-533-5060 (c) 604-341-5862

Address: 3926 196th St, Langley, B.C. V3A 6G1

Christian Champagne

Age: 27
Date of Birth: 30/08/1983
Weight: 70 kg / 155 lbs
Home Address: 1242 Park Dr., Vancouver, BC
Phone:

  • Cell: 778-938-4531
  • Work: 604-872-4225 ext. 433

Email: christian.champagne [] gmail.com

Blood type: O+
Last Tetanus shot: 25/08/2010
Allergies: none
Name of physician: none

Emergency contact

Name: Susan Champagne
Relationship: Mother
Phones:

  • Work: 819-681-5535
  • Home: 819-425-7658
  • Cell: 819-429-????

Email: susanluc [] sympatico.ca

Name: Luc Champagne
Relationship: Father
Phones:

  • Work: ?
  • Home: 819-425-7658
  • Cell: ?

Email: susanluc [] sympatico.ca

Laura Morrison

To Do List

Mt Denali National Park Registration - Dec.

  • Due minimum of 60 days before the climb (April 9th, 2011)
  • Mountaineering Fee: $200/person
  • Park Fee: $10
  • Deposit Upon Registration: $25
  • Online and hard copy forms available, must be completed together.

Info here

Flights - Dec.

  • K2 Aviation by January 31st, 2011 - $460/person ($560 otherwise)
    • $100 group deposit upon reservation.

Vehicle - Dec

  • Geoff should be able to borrow his family's Ford Windstar minivan. We can expect it to use about $800 worth of fuel on the trip. Lots of room, ski rack, well maintained, and safe and easy to drive.
  • Duncan will meeting the rest of the team in Anchorage, AK after flying in from Quebec City, QC on June 8th, 2011

Medical Needs - New Year

This consultation is not covered by the BC medical service plan (MSP) unless your physician faxes a referral letter to f-604.822.9058.

  • Need certain prescription drugs
    • Champagne - will email Kristen for her remaining drugs from her 2010 Mt Logan attempt.

Food Planning - New Year

  • Figure out each persons daily needs
  • Design menus
  • Menu needs food for easy days, hard days, quick days, and slow days
  • Menu should have variety and include meals satisfying different needs based on the kind of day
  • Divide dinner menus amongst ourselves giving each person responsibility over several meals for everyone
  • Food should be made from scratch and dried for maximum deliciousness
  • Food Allergies?
    • Laura: none
    • Champagne: none
    • Duncan: none
    • Jeff: milk products (especially cheese)

Gear

Personal

Ski/Mountaineering

  • 1 lightweight ice axe w/ leash – General mountaineering tool.
  • 1 pair of crampons – Compatible w/ ski boots (Tele or AT) and overboots
  • 1 climbing helmet
  • Accessory Cord – for prussiks and other rigging (ie: sleds)
  • 1 alpine Climbing Harness
  • 2 prussiks
  • 2 small locking biners
  • 1 large locking biner
  • 1 double length sling
  • 2 non-lockers biners
  • Pulley – for crevasse rescue and rigging (little, light, cheap)
  • Picket(s)
  • Ice Screw(s) – and v-threader
  • Webbing
  • 1 Ascender – One right or left-handed. May be optional, there is a section of fixed ropes we could use at the headwall.
  • 1 pair of Touring Skis
  • 1 pair of Ski Poles – can also be used as trekking poles
  • 1 pair of Climbing Skins
  • 1 Avalanche Transceiver
  • 1 Shovel
  • 1 Avalanche Probe

Footwear

  • 1 pair of Ski Boots
  • 1 pair of fully insulated overboots – must work with crampons, need to check if they work with Tele-boots (40Below)
  • 1 pair of gaiters – for lower on the mountain
  • 2 pairs of Heavyweight Socks
  • 2 pairs of liner Socks
  • 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Socks
  • 1 pair of Camp Booties

Technical Clothing

  • 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Top
  • 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Bottom
    • synthetic or wool. Good for hot days lower on the glacier, or for layering with the heavyweight on the upper mountain
  • 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Top – synthetic or wool
  • 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Bottom – synthetic or wool
  • 1 Soft Shell Jacket w/ hood – midweight or heavyweight
  • 1 Soft Shell Pants – midweight or heavyweight
  • 1 Hard Shell jacket w/ hood – waterproof, breathable
  • 1 Hard Shell Pants – waterproof, breathable or not
  • 1 Down Jacket or Parka – fit over insulation layers
  • 1 Down Pants or Insulated Synthetic Pant – to fit over insulation layers

Headwear

  • 1 Toque – should cover ears
  • 2 Balaclavas
    • 1 lightweight
    • 1 heavyweight to layer
  • 1 Sunhat/sunshield
  • 1 Nose Guard
  • 1 Bandana
  • 1 Glacier Glasses – 100% UVA and UVB, w/ side covers
  • 1 Ski Goggles – 100% UVA and UVB

Handwear

  • 1 Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves
  • 1 Expedition Weight Gloves – with medium or heavy weight soft shell liner
  • 1 Expedition Weight Mitts – for when gloves aren’t good enough
  • 1 Lightweight Synthetic Gloves - for ski touring and sun protection

Personal Equipment

  • 1 Expedition Backpack (+80L)
  • 1 Expedition Duffle Bag – for travelling and for the sled
  • 1 skiing sled – may come free with glacier flight
    • Champagne + Laura: talked to Pete Hudson and has two spare sleds we can use.
  • 1 Expedition Sleeping Bag – -30*C rating or better
  • 1 Vapour Barrier Liner - prevents condensation in sleeping bag
  • Compression Stuff Sacks
  • 1 or 2 Sleeping Pad(s) – Closed cell foam or inflatable (or both)
  • 2 Emergency Hand warmers and Toe Warmers – just in case…
  • Trash Compactor bag(s) – tough, heavy bag(s) with many uses
  • 1 Camera gear – light and simple, we probably don’t all need it
  • 1 Headlamp – mostly for drive up, there’s sun around the clock in the Arctic
  • American money - Lots of good gear deals to be found on Denali

Toiletry

  • 1 Toothbrush
  • 1 tube of toothpaste (for 30 days)
  • Dental floss
  • TP (for 30 days)
  • 1 lighter
  • 1 Hand Sanitizer
  • Sunscreen +30 SPF (for 30 days)
  • 1 Lip balm w/ +30 SPF
  • 1 Hand moisturizer w/ Aloe
  • Baby wipes
  • 1 Pee Funnel – if you’re a girl (ie: Freshette)
  • 1 Pee Bottle – Wide mouth (for obvious reasons…), marked so you don’t drink from it

Eating/drinking gear

  • 1 Bowl/measuring cup (i.e. GSI Fair Share Mug)
  • 1 insulated EVA closed foam for bowl/measuring cup
  • 1 spoon (or spork)
  • 1 small knife (or multitool)
  • 2 Water Bottles – Wide mouth to avoid freezing (ie: Nalgene)
  • 2 Water Bottle Parkas – insulated to prevent freezing

Travelling (Road Trip)

  • Travel Clothes – clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition
  • Backpack or small duffel – for travelling or to store personal stuff in Talkeetna while climbing

First Aid

  • 1 small personal First-Aid Kit – Aspirin, band-aids, moleskin, etc…

Group

Ski/Mountaineering

  • 2 4-Season Expedition Tents
    • Champagne - MWH Trango 2
  • 1 cooking tent (Champagne ?)
  • 2 flood tent EVA closed cell foam pad (3 mm (1/8') thickness)
    • Intuition or 40Below
  • Large Compression Sacks – for making caches
  • Ropes – probably 1 half, maybe 2
    • Champagne: 30m Beal Rando 8mm twin rope (Dry treated)
    • Jeff: 60m 8mm rope
  • Wands
  • Black Diamond Skin Globstopper (Champagne)

Navigation

  • 1 GPS
  • 1 SPOT Satellite Messenger (Champagne)
    • Need to look into getting GEOS coverage.
  • 4 Radios – each person should have one
  • Batteries – for everything, for 3 weeks
  • 1 Solar charger (Champagne)
  • 1 compass w/ inclinometer
  • 1 altimeter
  • 4 whistles - one each
  • Maps
  • Guidebook(s)

Cooking

  • 3 High-Altitude Stoves, white gas,interchangeable, must work in cold and wind(ie: XGK, WhisperLite, SimmerLite, etc)
    • Champagne: MSR XGK stove w/ MSR XGK (1) & WhisperLite (1) maintenance kits
    • Jeff: MSR WhisperLite stove
    • Duncan: MSR WhisperLite Stove
  • Lighters
    • Champagne: 1 Primus Ignition Steel Fire Starter
  • 3 MSR Heat Exchangers (Champagne)
  • 3 MSR Windscreens
    • Champagne: 1
  • Pots
    • Champagne: MSR Exo 2 Pot
  • 2 MEC Hot Pot Cookwear insulator (Champagne)
  • 3 stove snow platforms
    • Champagne: 1 Wilderness Concepts MSR WhisperLite snow platform
  • White Gas (TBD)
  • 1 GSI Compact Scraper (Champagne)
  • 1 Large capacity (10L) water bladder
  • 1 Black plastic bag for snow melting
  • Pristine drops

First Aid

  • 1 larger group First-Aid Kit (TBD)
  • Drugs: Acetazolamide, Dexamethasone, etc…

Entertainment

  • 1 deck of cards (micro or Freedom of the hills (Champagne) ?)
  • 1 micro Chess board
  • 1 micro checkers board
  • 1 iPod w/ speakers
  • Books (War and Peace-style)

Repair Kit

  • Voiles straps (TBD)

TBD

Food

TBD

UBC Human Kinetics Research

High Altitude Acute Mountain Sickness Genetic Susceptibility

  • Duncan, Jeff and Champagne have participated in an ongoing AMS susceptibility study at UBC.
  • The researchers are interested in assisting the team with medical backup in return to doing some medical during the trip.
  • Extremely useful for grant applications.
    • Meeting will be either the 6th, 13th or 20th of January 2011 at 10am in the Wesbrook building

Grants/fund raisers

MEC

  • Champagne will look into it.

ACC - Jen Higgins Memorial Fund

  • Laura will look into it.

Fund raisers

  • Jeff & Duncan will look into it.