Son of Rock 2015

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Synopsis

Main article: Son of Rock

Son of Rock is the traditional spring/summer instructional climbing trip. The rock is finally dry (hopefully), the snow sucks, and the days are long. The plan is to have several stations set up in the vicinity of the Smoke Bluffs in Squamish. There will be at least one (but most likely two) instructors at each station. All ability levels are welcome and no climbing experience is necessary. There will be 4 different climbing courses: 1: absolute beginner, 2: top rope anchor placements off bolts/trees and rappelling, 3: sport lead climbing (leading on bolt-protected routes), and 4: trad lead climbing (leading on chocks, cams, etc). Group sizes will be determined by instructor availability.

Trip organizer: Zack Wentz

Further logistics not listed on this page will be provided at the Pre-Trip meeting.

Logistics

  • May 9th - 10th, 2015

Overall Itinerary:

Saturday May 9th: 8:30am: Arrive Smoke Bluffs Parking lot and collect into pre-assigned groups. 9:00am: Leave Smoke Bluffs Parking lot for climbing areas (crags). 4:30pm: Regroup at parking lot and share stoke 5:00pm: Leave parking lot for food/campsite

Sunday May 10th: No official itinerary for this day. Your day's itinerary is dependent on your car group. As well, no formal instruction will be held on this day as well. There may be an optional trails project occurring with the Squamish Access Society to improve the state of trails for climbing access around Squamish. **Note: Previous trail-building experience in not required, though is an asset. Participation in this event will additionally count as a Workhike.** This project is tentative and will be finalized as the date approaches.

Camping Details:

We will be camping at a primitive camping site up the Squamish Valley Rd. The location of this campsite is at these coordinates: 49°54'38.42"N, 123°19'17.02"W. The campsite will fit approximately 30 people, and is available on a walk-in basis only (no reservations are made). Due to the primitive nature of this campsite, no washrooms or facilities are provided, so please bring toilet paper (teepie), drinking water (or water purification), and bags to carry out your waste and poo (for LNT purposes). We will have additional biodegradable bags available at the campsite. No camping fees are required, and campfires are permitted, so please bring some firewood and "roastables" (marshmallows, etc) to enjoy the wonderful campfire vibes. This campsite is accessed by car however, so car camping gear is appropriate.

Pre Trip Meeting

Pre trip meeting will be on May 5th from 7:00pm to about 8:00pm in Buchanan A103.

Instructor Signup

Instructors, please sign up using the main sign-up tool on the Trip Agenda [1]; but also on this page right below. Please indicate your Rock levels (1,2, 3 or 4) you'd be willing AND competent to teach. Also, if you DO NOT have the proper gear for your rock level you intend to instruct, please note this below. If you have any questions regarding your competence in teaching a specific rock level, feel free to ask any questions to me at: [email protected] Please sign up below:

  1. Clemens A. Rock 1-4. All the gear.
  2. Luka C. Rock 1-3. Rock 4 only as a secondary instructor. All gear for 1-4
  3. Emmanuel B. Rock 3-2-4-1 in order of preference. All gear for 1-4
  4. Omid J. Any of Rock 1-4, prefer to teach Rock 4. All the necessary gear for 1-4.
  5. Caroline J. Rock 2, 3, 4.
  6. Byron Rock 1
  7. Artem Babaian Rock 4. All gear OK
  8. Kat Rothe Rock 1. All gear OK
  9. Lea Z. Rock 2-1. All gear OK
  10. Cora Skaien Rock 1, 3 preferred; perhaps could do Rock 2. Have necessary gear for Rock 1 and 3
  11. Fisal Elstone Rock 1,2,3, Have all the gear for Rock 1,2,3

Here is a curriculum of what you might teach in each level [2]. If you have any questions regarding the curriculum, logistics, etc; we can discuss the details at the instructor meeting which will occur approx. 1 hour before the pre-trip meeting on May 5th. You are also welcome to emailing me at: [email protected] with any questions you may have.

Rock 1: Intro to Rock Climbing

For those of you who have never climbed before and want to learn the basics

  • Gear you need
  1. Harness (can rent that from the club room). Make sure it fits you (ask the quartermaster for help fitting it).
  2. Helmet (also available at club room. Bicycle Helmet works too. It's not so much about hitting you head, it's more about stuff being dropped onto your head, such as stones or gear)
  3. Climbing shoes. They should fit snugly but not so tight that they 'really' hurt. Available at the club room.
  4. A locking carabiner and a belay device. The VOC does not rent those out due to liability concerns. You can get them at MEC. These can be shared in teams of two as only one will be climbing and one will be belaying. Most people get this here belay device. It's relatively cheap but still works perfectly. For carabiners, get one with a screw lock and one that isn't too small (D- and Pear shape are best for belaying).
  5. Optional*** If you want to learn how to rappel: a prussik cord is available from the club or MEC, and we will show you how to tie it, etc.

Students

Please sign up using the standard signup tool on the Trip Agenda listed here: http://www.ubc-voc.com/tripagenda/details.php?tripid=947. Make sure to indicate the Rock level (1, 2, 3, or 4) you are signing up for; and any previous climbing experience if signing up for Rock 2-4. If you have any questions in regards to how to do this, please email me at: [email protected]

Optimum Student:Instructor Ratio 5:1 or 10:2

Rock 2: Intro to Anchor-Building and Rappelling

For those who want to move from gym climbing to outdoor climbing and don't know how to make safe anchors for top-roping, or for those with Rock 1 experience and wish to expand their knowledge. Please bring all the climbing equipment that you own. Helmets are MANDATORY as is something to anchor yourself such as [3] or a 48" sling or two 24" slings will do but it may be less comfortable (this may vary depending on your instructors' teaching preferences; discuss with your instructors at the pre-trip meeting before buying any unnecessary gear). We will be covering many different types of anchor setup. Please indicate if you would like to spend some time climbing or focus more on setting up different anchors with different equipment.

  • Required equipment: helmet, UIAA-approved harness, climbing shoes, something to anchor yourself, at least one locking carabiner.
  • Recommended equipment: belay device + locking carabiner, 4 locking carabiner(s) for anchors, slings, cordelette, cord for tying friction hitches (eg prussik cord)

(ask your instructor for details at the pre-trip meeting).

If you have a rope or can borrow one from a friend, please bring it.

Students

Please sign up using the standard signup tool on the Trip Agenda listed here: http://www.ubc-voc.com/tripagenda/details.php?tripid=947. Make sure to indicate the Rock level (1, 2, 3, or 4) you are signing up for; and any previous climbing experience if signing up for Rock 2-4. If you have any questions in regards to how to do this, please email me at: [email protected]

Optimum Student:Instructor Ratio 3:1 or 6:2

Rock 3: Intro to Lead Climbing (Leading on Bolt-Protected Routes)

For those interested in learning how to lead climb.

Gear needed: All the gear needed for Rock 2 (helmet, climbing shoes, harness, prussik+biner, anchor gear, personal anchor system or dedicated sling for that; as well as: a rope and quickdraws, if you can borrow them from a friend. **Please only borrow a rope from your friend if you are aware of the history of their rope care.**

Students

Please sign up using the standard signup tool on the Trip Agenda listed here: http://www.ubc-voc.com/tripagenda/details.php?tripid=947. Make sure to indicate the Rock level (1, 2, 3, or 4) you are signing up for; and any previous climbing experience if signing up for Rock 2-4. If you have any questions in regards to how to do this, please email me at: [email protected]

Optimum Student:Instructor Ratio 4:1 or 8:2

Rock 4: Intro to Traditional Climbing

For those interested in learning how to properly place traditional climbing protection, and learn more advanced techniques of lead climbing strategy.

For Rock 4, you need all the Rock 3 gear, plus: traditional lead protection (nuts, cams, tricams, etc). Please do not purchase these items before Rock 4; only borrow by permission from a friend if they allow.

Students

Please sign up using the standard signup tool on the Trip Agenda listed here: http://www.ubc-voc.com/tripagenda/details.php?tripid=947. Make sure to indicate the Rock level (1, 2, 3, or 4) you are signing up for; and any previous climbing experience if signing up for Rock 2-4. If you have any questions in regards to how to do this, please email me at: [email protected]

Optimum Student:Instructor Ratio 3:1 or 6:2