Document type : vocene
Date : 2006-11-08
Description : VOCene #14
Content :
VOCene #14 - Nov 8, 2006

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In this VOCene:

I. Letter from the Editor
II. Slide Shows
III. Work Hikes
IV. Upcoming Trips
     1) Smith Rocks
     2) Caving
     3) CAA Avalanche Workshop 2006
     4) CAA Avalanche Coarse
     5) Winter Social
V. Trip Reports
     1) North Arete of Wedge

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I. Letter From the Editor

     The snow is not quite deep enough to ski in, and it is too wet or cold to climb. Does that mean we stay home and study, or go on stupidly long road trips to places were the weather is better, even just marginally better? Since Smith Rocks has ~50 people going (~20 hours round trip), I think the VOC has voted for the later. Smart group, the VOC has its priorities straight.

II. Slide Shows

When: Nov 8, @ 7pm 
Where: Clubroom

Evan, Peter and Pascal are presenting a slide show of their trip to the Stein Valley!

They hiked 100 km from Lillooet to Lytton in 8 days through the Stein Divide and Valley... it's an absolutely gorgeous place.

Check the wiki (http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Slide_shows) for more information.
 
III) Work Hikes

1) Still need that workhike to rent gear? Evan needs some help Wiki-izing the Journals. It would involve just a few hours work typing up 2 journal's table of contents and index. Plus it's fun to read the old journals! Contact Evan (ecmorris@gmail.com).

2) Route Cleaning

Jeff wants to clean a 5.7 multi-pitch on the Chief. He has looked into what is required and is now starting the project. The climb is 400m and is called "Crap Crags". It would be really cool to have a 5.7/5.8 climb that went from the bottom to the top of the Chief, especially if it had a few stars attached to the name. If you want to help contact Jeff @  or the wiki @ .

IV) Upcoming Trips

1) Smith Rocks

When: Nov 10-13
Where: Oregon somewhere
Contact: Kaja (ksadowsk@interchange.ubc.ca)
Wiki: http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Smith_Rock

A road trip this large can not help but be fun. If you are going to bail, you should have already done so. Bailing leaves a lot of gas money to be split with the other three people and the waiting list has dwindled to nothing. 

2) Caving

When: Nov 10-13
Where: Vancouver Island
Message Board: http://www.ubc-voc.com/phorum2/read.php?f=1&i=19624&t=19624

3) CAA Avalanche Workshop 2006

When: Nov 25
Where: Whistler Secondary School, 8000 Alpine Way Whistler
Wiki: http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/CAA_Avalanche_Workshop_2006

Sandra's says that it is one of the most useful avi workshops that she has taken. I would believe her. This is not a substitute for the coarse (next post). It is a useful refresher before the season starts for those who have already taken the coarse or are planning on taking the coarse. 

4)CAA Avalanche Coarse

When: Nov 30 (evening) & Dec 2,3
Where: Class room and the mountains (North Shore or Whistler)
Wiki: http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Recreational_Avalanche_Course

The course is being provided by Chris Borstad (currently doing a PhD on avalanches) through the Canada West Mountain School. There will be space in this course for 16 students. If more than 16 students would like to take the course then we might be able to arrange for one more instructor, bringing the total up to 24 spaces. However, if we cannot get another instructor, or if there is a lot of demand, then the VOC will organize another course in January or February 2007. This wiki page will be updated as details for this course become available -- if you have questions that cannot be answered here then contact Sandra Nicol (sandra DOT nicol AT telus DOT net).

5) Winter Social

When: December 1st (Friday)
Where: Sub party room

There will be a speaker, probably free food (not confirmed), music and a SAGM (semi-annual general meeting).

V. Trip Reports

1) Attempt on North Arete of Wedge under Ideal Conditions

Piotr, Adrian (BCMC fellow) and Christian decided that, despite a grim weather forecast, they should try and climb the N Arete of Wedge. Alpine Select describes it as a classic, and lists the route as a good candidate for a solo attempt, due to 'few crevasse issues'. Or something along those lines...


They arrived in the rain, which turned to snow and almost blizzard status by the time they reached the hut Saturday. Getting to bed early they listened to the wind howling around the hut all night. They got up early and proceeded to slowly wade through the 1m of fresh snow towards the arete.

Christian believed the 'few crevasse issues' must be a phenomena observed at another time of year (admittedly, this is probably the worst time of year). They experienced some large route finding obstacles, namely large crevasses everywhere - and smaller ones hidden under the fresh snow, which covered things (including their tracks). They all had a foot dangling at various times during the ascent. Eventually they climbed to the base of the arete proper, but deemed it madness due to poor visibility and avalanche hazard. A good time was had by all. Pictures are at 

It should be noted that, were it not for the still uncovered crevasses, there is enough snow up there (starting about 2000m) to go skiing...

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Quote of the Week: "We do not live to eat and make money. We eat and make money to be able to enjoy life"
George Leigh Mallory, 1922
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