Archive:Glacier School 2010

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Date

September 18th - 19th, 2010

Mandatory dry school on Wed September 15th at 6:30pm BUCH B315

General Information

What is Glacier School?

Glacier School is a 2-day (weekend) course intended to teach safe and efficient means of travelling over glaciers. The school is divided into two courses:

  1. Glacier 1 is designed for beginners to snow and glacier travel. It is expected that you have previous backpacking and camping experience.
  2. Glacier 2 is for students with previous glacier experience that want to learn more advanced skills or to climb a peak.

Expectations

The point of G1 is to give students enough basic skills that they are not a total liability as a member of a 3 (or more) person glacier rope team, such that more experienced members may feel comfortable trusting their life to them on a rope. For more detailed information check out the info booklet.

The prerequisites for being a student at glacier school are minimal: Students must have overnight backpacking experience, a good attitude, and good general fitness. Some rope skills (such as belaying, common climbing knots, etc) are desirable but not absolutely necessary. In order to cram it all into one weekend we will be on the move all day regardless of the weather - please be prepared for that.

Sign up early as group size will be limited to ensure low student/instructor ratio and minimal environmental impact

Instructors for glacier school are club members who volunteer their time, and are not professional guides, nor are they certified by any recognized school or association. If you don't feel comfortable taking responsibility for your own life in the context of an informal course facilitated by these VOC instructors, you should take a mountaineering course offered by a professional guiding service.

How much does it cost?

The instructors at glacier school are all volunteers, but there are still minor expenses that need to be covered like the glacier school manual you will receive a copy of at Dry school. Also you will need to pay your driver gas money, which can vary depending on how many people you are in the car and what kind of car it is (See the Driver reimbursement guidelines. If you need to borrow gear from the clubroom a deposit is needed, but this will be returned to you again when you return the gear. Please bring CASH for all expenses (preferably small change). Prussik cords and the VOC expenses need to be paid at the dryschool, gas money are paid to your driver on the trip and gear deposit needs to be paid when you pick up your gear either during gear hours or at dryschool.

At the dryschool: $5 for two prussik cords, unless you already have them. (please specify if you are bringing your own on the signup)
$15 for VOC expenses: Photocopying/booklet, beverages, poo bags, donation to the Flavelles, etc.

On the trip: $25 typical gas money, negotiated with your driver.

Whenever you pick up your gear $0-200 deposit for borrowing club gear, depending how much you need, refundable when the gear is returned.

If the club runs out of gear you may need to rent from MEC or elsewhere.

Who do I ask questions to?

Veenstra is running this trip. If, after reading the glacier school wiki and handout, you can't find an answer to your question you could email him about it - but better yet post on the Glacier School message board thread, then everybody who has the same question can also read it. There's also some useful general information about the club, membership, and how the club works on the Faq, which is worth a read if you're unfamiliar.

What Do I Need?

Clothes

  • 1 set of non-cotton clothes (the one on your back)
  • 1 additional warm thing (fleece / down jacket. Maybe a 2nd fleece and some long-johns, for the evening)
  • water proof pants and jacket (even if the weather is supposed to be good - being dragged through the snow is wet)
  • toque (best warmth/weight ratio going for clothing. Maybe a 2nd toque, since it's lighter than a 2nd fleece)
  • gloves
  • boots
  • sun hat
  • gaiters

Shelter

  • Tent (or be friendly with someone who has one)
  • sleeping bag (a summer bag is probably good, depending how warm you think you sleep. 0C or warmer)
  • sleeping pad
  • A tarp for hanging out under while eating dinner wouldn't be the worst idea in the world, if you own one already

Miscellaneous

  • Burly container / outer bag for carrying poo bags (smell resistance recommended)
  • Sunscreen
  • Headlamp
  • lip balm
  • sunglasses
  • camera
  • bug net (works way better than bug juice, plus it doesn't wreck the environment or your stuff)
  • Toilet Paper
  • Toothbrush
  • Lighter
  • Bearspray (optional - with such a large, probably noisy, group I'd be highly surprised if any self-respecting bear would go anywhere near us)

Gear

  • ice axe
  • crampons (which fit boots! Bring your boots and crampons to dryschool if you need help)
  • climbing harness
  • helmet
  • prussiks (you can buy these at the dry school)
  • 2 locking carabiners (best if one big and one small) and 2 non-locking (or more locking)
  • you can bring more junk, if you like. Sometimes it's the most fun to learn with your own gear
  • trekking poles, if you like, make hiking easier and are worth the weight

Food

  • stove + pot + fuel + lighter (or be friendly)
  • Plastic thing to eat out of (old yogurt container? Or something fancier)
  • spoon
  • Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast, Lunch (food groups will be arranged at dry school)
  • Water (ability to carry 2L, unless you know otherwise).
  • Water purifier drops (if you're into that)

Luxury

  • songbook
  • down slippers for camp, aka booties, other lightweight footwear, such as "Crocs" may be appropriate luxury items
  • instrument

Pack

And a pack to put it all in.


The VOC has some of the technical gear and will lend it out to students for a minor deposit. See gear list for details. You can borrow gear from the VOC any day during gear hours or after dry school. If there’s not enough VOC rental gear to go around, some borrowing, or renting from MEC will have to fill the voids. Please reserve rental gear early to ensure the gear you need will be available for the weekend.


If you don't have a tent or a stove, don't worry... food and tent groups will be arranged at dry school.

Locations

Glacier 1

Location for G1 is confirmed as the anniversary glacier:

Anniversary Glacier / Cerise Creek.

Directions

We'll meet at the Cerise Creek Parking lot (off Hwy 99). The pullout is located 7.5km (check your odometer) past the Joffre Lakes parking lot.

Please have all passengers in your vehicle and be heading over the Lions Gate bridge at 6am. This timing does not include time for a quick Tim Hortons stop on the way, which takes at least 15min even if you eat in the car - if you want to do this, just head out appropriately earlier (or, easier, make one of your passengers bake you muffins or something). It does include 1 stop for gas, because it's a long drive and we wouldn't want you to run out.

Glacier 2

TBD based on conditions and participants

Dry School (Mandatory!)

The dry school is mandatory, so if you don't show up to the dry school, you will lose you spot on the trip and someone on the waitlist will get the chance to learn about glaciers instead of you.

When and Where?

Wednesday, September 15th @ 6:30pm location BUCH B315

What Happens at Dry School?

There will be a brief introduction to glacier travel before we outline what’s to be expected for the weekend and cut people who fail to show up and replace them with people on the waitlist who did show up. Then, we’ll arrange transportation, stove and tent groups, collect your fees, sell prussik cords, lend out VOC gear. Finally we'll review knots then put on our harnesses and practice prusiking up ropes (either in a stairwell or up trees). Read the info booklet ahead of time!

Agenda

  • 6:30 - prusik sales and sorting out "signed up" from "actually coming and paid" begins
  • 6:45 - waitlist opens (I'll just call names down the waitlist, to fill available spots. This means if you're signed up, but show up after 6:45, you may loose your spot)
  • 7:00 - sort out rides, tents, and food
  • 7:15 - review of knots begins
  • later - after individuals have shown they learned all the knots we'll practice prusiking, lowering, and setting up hauling systems in the nice, warm, dry, classroom.

What do I Need to Bring to Dry School?

Glacier 1 students (and others wishing to practise crevasse rescue), please bring your harnesses, biners and prussiks (unless you're buying them at dryschool). You will receive a copy of the info booklet, and are expected to have read it ahead of time.

IMPORTANT: Also bring your boots and crampons to ensure they are adjusted correctly if you have not done so previously or are unsure.


Sign up

Signup is over - don't modify these lists. Everybody who showed up to the pre-trip made it on the trip, even the dude who showed up 1 hour late who is now student #40.

Instructor List

Email Veenstra if you want to be on one of these lists. Instructor numbers may be limited too.

G1:

  1. Christian Veenstra
  2. Roland Burton
  3. Scott Webster
  4. Kristen Brewer
  5. Mike Duncan
  6. Josh Zukewich
  7. Noah Besen
  8. Todd Mackenzie
  9. Line Lund Christiansen
  10. Eliza Boyce


G2:

  1. Christian Champagne
  2. Geoffrey Martin

G2 Auxiliary:

  1. Trial
  2. Error

Student G1 sign up

No Write.png Signup Closed
This is the sign up and organization page for an old trip. It already happened on 18-9-2010. Please do not sign up for it.


Actually coming on G1

These people are actually on the trip, they paid and showed up:

  1. Rebecca Abernethy (need prusik cord)
  2. Derry Lappin need prusik cord
  3. Jeff Taylor (need prusik)
  4. Andrew Primavera, own prusik
  5. Jon Rothwell (need prusik)
  6. Brett Riley need prusik cord
  7. Gwyn Thomas need prusik cord
  8. Alfred Larsen needs a prusik cord
  9. Ian Saari, need prusik cord
  10. Fraser Foulds, need prusik cord
  11. Sarah Walinga (need prusik)
  12. Simon Bretschneider, needs prusik
  13. Nisan Haramati (have prusik)
  14. Shuval Haramati (have prusik)
  15. Bruno Godin own prusik
  16. Nouri Najjar, need prusik cord
  17. Mohammad M (have prusik)
  18. Phil Tomlinson
  19. Victoria Alfred
  20. Andrew McGechaen (have prusik)
  21. Avery Gottfried (have prusiks)
  22. Tom Curran (need prusik)
  23. Stephanie Schmitt (have prusik)
  24. Philip Provencher (have prusik)
  25. Kelly Paton needs a prusik cord too!
  26. Maite de la Fuente (need prusik)
  27. Caitlin Schneider (have prusiks)
  28. Chantelle Chan (has prusiks)
  29. Jaime Wu (need Prusik)
  30. Noriko Prusik Okamoto (tangled)
  31. Gabriela Espino (need prusik)
  32. Jan Mertens (need prusik)
  33. Riley Patterson (needs prussiks)
  34. Mariana Gonzalez (has cord)
  35. Klara Sedlacek (need prusik)
  36. Stan Sedlacek (need prusik)
  37. Niklas Emthén (needs prusik)
  38. Justin Knudson (needs prusik)
  39. justin hall (have prusik)
  40. Ahad

Cars

Veenstramobile

  1. veenstra
  2. line
  3. Roland
  4. Stan
  5. Klara

Fraser Foulds

  1. Ian
  2. Nouri

Niklas Emthén

  1. Chantelle
  2. jon
  3. sarah
  4. Todd

Eliza Boyce

  1. Bruno
  2. Maite
  3. Webster

Nisan Haramati -- leaving Friday.

  1. Shuvi
  2. Gwyn
  3. Riley (switched from one of the other cars)

Tinkerbell (Avery Gottfried)

  1. Rebecca
  2. Mariana
  3. Nouri

Vicky Alfred

  1. Phil
  2. Justin
  3. Jaime

Mohammad Mohammadnia-Avval

  1. Caitlin
  2. jeff

Alfred Larsen

  1. Andrew
  2. Gabriela
  3. Tom

Stephanie Schmitt

  1. Phil
  2. Andrew
  3. Justin

Mike Duncan

  1. Josh
  2. Kelly
  3. Kristen

Derry Lappin

  1. Brett
  2. Simon
  3. Tom

Teaching Groups

Christian Veenstra
Roland Burton

  1. Tom Curran
  2. Gabriela Espino
  3. Rebecca Abernethy
  4. Andrew Primavera
  5. Avery Gottfried
  6. Gwyn Thomas
  7. Vicky Alfred
  8. Riley Patterson

Scott Webster
Kristen Brewer

  1. Nisan
  2. Shuvi
  3. Jaime
  4. Noriko
  5. Maite
  6. Simon
  7. Andrew
  8. Mohammad

Team Awesome
Mike Duncan
Josh Zukewich

  1. Caitlin
  2. Phil
  3. Phil
  4. Steph
  5. Chantelle
  6. Jon
  7. Jeff
  8. Kelly

Noah Besen
Todd Mackenzie

  1. Fraser
  2. Ian
  3. Justin
  4. Alfred
  5. Niklas
  6. Nouri
  7. Bruno
  8. Ahad


Line Lund Christiansen
Eliza Boyce

  1. Justin
  2. Klara
  3. Marianna
  4. Stan
  5. Derry
  6. Bret
  7. Tom
  8. Sarah

Student G2 signup

We'll be climbing the Fisher Chimney's route on Mount Shuksan. See Kevin McLane's Alpine Select for more info.

Driving info: Austin Pass Driving Directions

Drivers

Nick's Car

  1. Champagne
  2. Laura
  3. Brad
  4. Conrad

Liam's Car

  1. Bethan
  2. Doris
  3. Geoff

Chris's Car

  1. Andrew
  2. Christian S

Tents

Sign up below to be in a tent. If you are in someone else's tent you are bringing a stove, fuel, and pots. Email your tentmate if you want to plan food.

Geoff's Tent

  1. Andrew (Geoff, will email you about food)

Nick's Tent

  1. Doris

Laura's Tent that she won't be in

  1. Chris
  2. ...

Liam's Tent

  1. Bethan

Champagne's Tent

  1. Laura

Conrad's Tent

  1. Christian S.

G2 Auxiliary a.k.a. "The G2 Drop-outs"

Destination: Mt Matier via Joffre Lakes

Chris's car:
-Skyler
-Maya
-Len
-Ira