Archive:2013 Monarch - Ha-iltzuk Spring Ski Traverse

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Tim Blair, Nicholas Matwyuk, Nicholas Gobin, Artem Bylinskii and others (TBD) are planning a traverse from Bella Coola to Knight Inlet. This page is being used to help them plan logistics.

Next Meeting: TBD

March 25 Meeting

  • People, sort out the committed people and organize a "game plan"
    • 7 people so maybe a 4 man tent and a 3 man tent, anyone have a 4 man?
    • Michal will do 2 weeks (unsure if first or last)
    • Food would be two groups of 3 for the first half and then 4/3 for the other half
  • concentrate on transportation (to bella coola and from knight inlet), food (do we need 2 loads with nick into monarch?), and gear (tents, climbing gear?)
  • Objectives (route research), base camps for multiple side trips?

Action Items

  • Tim to talk to White Saddle Air about capacity
  • Sam to investigate float plane options out of Bella Coola
    • Figure out Breannes plans, i.e. do we have use of the van
    • Nusatsum river road investigation
  • Michal to see if he can provide a vehicle
  • Matwyuk to look into sled bags (material)
    • Tim to go through Seattle on Thursday 28th
  • Gobin to investigate mounting patterns of dynafit
    • Matwyuk = Radical Speeds
  • Nicks to compile repair kit
  • between 3.5L and 4.0L per person per 26 days
    • people to procure their own
  • 3x 30m ropes
  • 2x 60m ropes
  • 2x 30m with 1x 60m
  • stoves
    • Tim
    • Florian
  • pots
    • Tim = 3L
  • first aid kit (Sam to compile a list)
    • Matwyuk can borrow Champagnes kit
    • Matwyuk to check expiry date of morphine and T3s
    • Sam to add in supplies
  • ski crampons


  • Tim
  • Matwyuk
  • Artem
  • Michal
  • Sam
  • Florian
  • Gobin (Half way)

Travel Details



  • April 22 to May 20 total of 29 days including travel
    • First backcountry night is April 23 and last backcountry night is May 18
      • 26 dinners (8-9-9)
      • 27 breakfast
      • 27 lunches

Route Info

Travel Logistics

Bella Coola

  • 1000km and ~13.5hrs
  • Two vehicles required

Gobin's Chopper

  • Can this take all of our food in one shot or do we need another food drop?

Knight Inlet

  • How many flights required to get out?
  • Aim to be picked up on May 19th?

White Saddle Air

  • Will cost ~$2200 to fly up to 4 people & gear to the Monarch Icefield.
  • They no longer have a fixed wing (tear) so no float plane.

Tyax Air

Insurance Coverage



Trip Dinners

Trip Breakfasts

Travel Day


Group Gear as Updated April 9

  • shopping list for gobin to bring in
  • box of meals for gobin to bring in
  • 3x whisper lite stoves & fuel bottles (Florian, Tim, Sam)
  • Whisperlite stove repair kit (Tim)
  • Fuel - 4L per person
    • 3x 750ml bottles to start each
  • 2x 3L pots (Tim & Matwyuk)
  • 1x 2L pot (Gobin)
  • Tents
    • 3-man Hilleberg (Tim)
  • 2x Altimeter watch (Matwyuk, Michal/Gobin)
  • Globstopper
  • Sat Phone (Matywuk via Kathrin)

Group Gear

  • First Aid Kit
    • Friars Balsam
    • Micropore tape (blisters)
    • Tensor bandage (or elastocrepe)
    • Finger Bandage (10 of various sizes and shapes)
    • Non adherant dressing (2"x3"x3, 3"x4"x1)
    • Steri strips (12mmx100mmx12, 6mmx38mmx6, 3mmx75mmx5)
    • Jelonet (2x10cmx10cm)
    • Tegraderm (6cmx7cmx2, 9cmx10cmx1) (or Opsite)
    • Ibuprofen
    • Tylenol 3
    • Robaxacet
    • Benedryl
    • Triangular
    • Medical Insurance
  • Binding repair kit
  • Sat Phone (Confirmed rental through [1] April 29 to May 24)
  • SPOT (Tim's)
  • 2 X 30m ropes (Ben and Tim)
  • sewing kit (Ben)
  • Kickwax (Tim)
  • (Tim) Maps Ordered online
  • (Ben) Guidebook - photocopy relavent peaks
  • (Ben) GPS spare batteries
  • Compass (Tim & Ben)
  • (Ben) Sat Phone with spare battery or car charger?
  • () 2x windscreens
  • (Ben) 1x pot scrapers
  • (Ben) 1x spondonacles
  • (Ben) Water tablets

Repair kit

  • small roll duct tape (everyone to bring some)
  • 2' steel wire ( Ben will bring)
  • Pole repair kit (tim has)
  • (Ben) small multitool (What screwdrivers do we want?) - #3 pozi drive, Philips and a flathead
  • 1x G3 repair kit screws (Ben)
  • epoxy (Ben)
  • skin tip loop (Ben)
  • 2x extra voile binding wires (Ben)
  • 2x extra cartridges (Ben)
  • extra heel throw (Ben)
  • pole basket (Greta)
  • thermarest/down mat patch kit (Evan, Ben, Tim)
  • waist buckle (Tim)


  • Materials
    • Crazy carpets - Evan
    • Plastic Grommets - Tim
    • Ben is epoxying grommets
  • Finish sleds at Ben's place April 21st.

TO DO list


General Phone Numbers

Emergency Phone Numbers and Info

  • Tim
    • Tim's Mum (Jill): 604-929-0806
    • Mirella Mazur (Tim's Girlfriend): 604-971-1005
  • Matwyuk
    • Matwyuk's Mom (Deborah): 250-964-6285
  • Sam
    • Parents (604-894-6215)
  • Gobin
    • Parents Bernard & Elizabeth 604-263-0301 (H)
    • Bernard Work 604-875-0377
    • Mel 778-928-6354

Trip Plan

Spot Website



Emergency Exit Options

Backup Plan


Route Research

Sam Ogre (S slope + SE ridge): S slopes are mellow up the glacier with a steep snow climb to the summit. SE ridge is a corniced exposed snow and rock scramble.

Jacobson (SW face, S ridge to SE face) SE and SW face's are steep snow climbs to gain the S ridge. May need to punch through some cornice to gain ridge from SE face. From the south ridge the ascent to the summit is non-technical steep snow and rock.

W. Jacobson (SE couloir + N face) A beautiful steep snow/ice north face. SE couloir is a steep couloir of snow on the right SE face which has bands of ice.

Cerberus (S ridge climb + W face slope) Ice-Snow and rock S ridge. Some Technical buttresses. West face is a steep snow/ice climb, can possibly be skied to summit in good condition.

Sciron A difficult peak which involves technical rock and is seldom climbed. May have good ski runs on certain aspects.


Mount Jacobsen, West Summit

1) SE Face/Couloir

Baldwin: Slightly lower West summit has prominent glaciated face (couloir) on its SE side that offers a 600 m ski descent. The face is mostly 35deg with a section of 45deg in the middle; crevasses and exposed ice in this middle section can be avoided on skier’s left/climber’s right (confirmed by Bivouac account which describes hard ice in most of couloir except for a line of snow to slog up/ski down on climber’s far right). Ascent is a bootpack up the face to the summit ridge.

Surlock’s photo:

Michal: Not sure about scramble to summit; looks quite steep but could go. Other parties on Bivouac describe being turned around by technical climbing even though they had crampons and rope.

2) North Face

Surlock’s photo:

Michal: Looks doable: most probable route would start climber’s left, cross the ‘schrund and going straight up between rock and icefall; once above the icefall, you need to traverse right under the rock band into the rough middle of the face, hopefully avoiding the second ‘schrund; next go straight up and trending slightly right in order to avoid the serac bands below the summit, popping onto the summit ridge just W of the summit or traversing left just below the summit ridge onto the summit. Problems could include getting over the bergshrund at the bottom and finding a way across into the middle of the face while also tyring to avoid the potential bergshrund in the middle. Definitely very exposed in the second half as you’re bootpacking above a huge icefall.

Mongol Mountain, East Summit

Bivouac: A possible summit route is a snowslope on the southwest side. Mostly steep slopes on all other sides.

Mongol Mountain, West Summit

Baldwin: Higher of the two peaks, 800 metres prominence above head of Taleomy Gl. Ascend via glacier S of the summit by swinging W of the main crevassed area around 2300 m.

Bivouac: The southwest side of this peak is glaciated almost to the summit, and this glacier offers an easy route to the summit.

Mount Geryon

Baldwin: Upper W ridge is an easy scramble. Take skis to the base of the ridge via steep slopes on the S side.

from Bivouac: The fourth day of a thirteen day ski trip to the Monarch Icefield. After establishing base camp #2 in the glaciated bowl at the head of the E branch of the Sumquolt Glacier, our first objective was Mount Geryon. Steep skinning and a short belayed bootpack over a weakly bridged 'shrund led up the South Face to the almost-level shoulder on the summit ridge. From here it looked like exposed 3rd class to the top. We opted to forego the summit attempt, because getting our entire party of seven to the summit and back would have taken forever, and some weather appeared to be moving in. Instead we marvelled at the incredible drop below us into the valley of the Taleomey River (7000 vertical feet over 4 km) and then skiied down the S Face. Some clouds had by now moved in, but they were in and out, so we spent the rest of the day skiing around Chili Tower via its col with Tzintli, and then up the North side of Erehwon Mountain to its top. From the top we descended the narrow, South facing couloir straight back to camp, an excellent line. [2]

Tzintli Peak

1) NE Face

Google Earth: large snow face with some rocks bands across it, likely a good path of least resistance can be made up to the summit ridge and skiied down; could be some bergshrunds

Surlock’s photo:

2) NW Couloir

Google Earth: possibly skiable?; might be too steep

Half Dome

Google Earth: NW-facing wide couloir/face looks to be a possibility, kind of like SE couloir on Jacobsen West; bootpack up, ski down; gaining the summit via the summit ridge from the top of couloir could be technical

Taleomey Tower

Google Earth: could be much easier to reach high point on ridge connecting with the Ogre rather than the summit of the Tower itself, which looks to be very steep and technical (rock); possible N-facing couoir from E of the high point on Ogre ridge (S ridge); broad and more mellow E face that could also be good

Personal Gear


  • Book (max 1 per person)
  • deck of cards - yes! (Evan)

Personal Clothing

  • 2 pairs skiing socks
  • 1 pair sleeping socks
  • 2 pairs skiing underwear
  • 1 pair sleeping underwear
  • 1 warm lower
  • 1 base lower (preferred light, to wear in the sun)
  • 1 shell lower
  • 1 warm upper
  • 1 base upper (preferred light, high collar, to wear in the sun)
  • 1 shell upper
  • optional additional warm upper
  • toque/balaclava
  • down jacket
  • 1 pair gloves with removable liners
  • 1 pair overmit shells
  • 1 pair lightweight gloves to protect hands from sun
  • optional gaiters
  • camp booties (or equivalent)

Personal Skiing Gear

  • Skiis
  • Skins
  • Poles
  • Boots + Liners + orthotics
  • Beacon spare batteries
  • Shovel
  • Probe

Personal Large bits

  • (!) Huge Pack modify lid to enable day tripping
  • Sled - see above
  • Sled towing crap - Everyone figure out own method

Personal Small bits

  • Voile Straps (4 each - two medium one large one garbage sealer)
  • Sunglasses
  • lighter lenses?
  • Sunscreen
  • Sunhat/sunshield
  • nosesheild (make own)
  • toothbrush
  • toothpaste
  • dental floss
  • TP!
  • spf30 or better Lip Balm
  • moisturizer with aloe
  • small knife, < 50g
  • lighter
  • menstrual cup for the ladies (better than disposables - if it works for you)
  • Birth control (Not required for Tim and Ben)
  • whistle
  • Compass
  • Headlamp spare batteries
  • Camera spare batteries
  • Solar panel - Ben

Personal Sleeping

  • Sleeping Pad
  • Sleeping Bag

Mountain/Glacier Gear

  • 2x 30m ropes (Ben and Tim)
  • 1 iceaxe each
  • Ski Crampons
  • Harnesses
  • 2 prussiks each
  • 2 small locking biners each
  • 1 large locking biner
  • 1 double length sling each
  • 2 non-lockers


  • Bowl/measuring cup
  • optional shaker cup
  • Spoon
  • Nalgenes
  • Water Bladder

Not bringing

  • Extra iceaxe
  • Snowsaw
  • Pickets
  • Rock Pro
  • Belay Device
  • Extra pole
  • Helmets

Ben's food

Group Dinners
1) Pad Tai (800g)

  • 500g rice noodles
  • veggies

2) Tortellini and pesto with veggies (1000g)

  • 750g cheese tortellini
  • 45g dried pesto
  • g olive oil
  • g veggies

3) Curry veggies with quinoa (800g)
4) Vegetarian stew with dumplings

    • 200g dried potatoes
    • 50g dried tomatoes
    • 30g dried onions
    • 100g bulgar wheat
    • 60g vegetable boullion
    • 60g any other dried vegetables (zucchini, bell peppers and yams are recommended)
  • Dumplings
    • 2c flour
    • 1 tbsp baking powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp butter
    • 1/2c hot water

5) Chili (800 g)

  • During Day food
    • Hard Parmesan Cheese 100g per day x 10 days = 1kg
    • Nut butter 100g per day X 10 days = 1kg
    • Hummus
    • Wasa Crackers (???g per day)
    • Optimum bars 1 per day (???g)= 20 bars =
    • Fruit bars 1 per day (37g) = 740g
    • Fruit leather
    • Dried fruit
    • Instant Oatmeal
    • Hot chocolate Granola
    • Chocolate (50g per day = 0.5kg/10 bars)
    • Gummies (25g per day = 500g)
    • Total (20 days) =