Archive:Denali 2011

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Revision as of 14:02, 22 December 2010 by Champagne (talk | contribs) (Update 3)
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Team Details

Team VOC Hot Faff

  • Geoffrey Martin
  • Michael Duncan
  • Christian Champagne
  • Laura Morrison

Emergency Contact Info

Geoffrey Martin

Michael Duncan

Sylvia Duncan

Relationship: mother

Phone: (w) 604-530-1311 (h) 604-533-5060 (c) 604-341-5862

Address: 3926 196th St, Langley, B.C. V3A 6G1

Christian Champagne

Susan Champagne

Relationship: mother


  • Work: 819-681-5535
  • Home: 819-425-7658
  • Cell: 819-429-????

Address: 970 rue Estelle, Mont-Tremblant, QC, J8E 2N9

Laura Morrison

To Do List

Mt Denali National Park Registration - Dec.

  • Due minimum of 60 days before the climb (April 9th, 2011)
  • Mountaineering Fee: $200/person
  • Park Fee: $10
  • Deposit Upon Registration: $25
  • Online and hard copy forms available, must be completed together.

Info here

Flights - Dec.

  • K2 Aviation by January 31st, 2011 - $460/person ($560 otherwise)
    • $100 group deposit upon reservation.

Vehicle - Dec

  • Geoff should be able to borrow his family's Ford Windstar minivan. We can expect it to use about $800 worth of fuel on the trip. Lots of room, ski rack, well maintained, and safe and easy to drive.
  • Duncan will meeting the rest of the team in Anchorage, AK after flying in from Quebec City, QC on June 8th, 2011

Medical Needs - New Year

This consultation is not covered by the BC medical service plan (MSP) unless your physician faxes a referral letter to f-604.822.9058.

  • Need certain prescription drugs
    • Champagne - will email Kristen for her remaining drugs from her 2010 Mt Logan attempt.

Food Planning - New Year

  • Figure out each persons daily needs
  • Design menus
  • Menu needs food for easy days, hard days, quick days, and slow days
  • Menu should have variety and include meals satisfying different needs based on the kind of day
  • Divide dinner menus amongst ourselves giving each person responsibility over several meals for everyone
  • Food should be made from scratch and dried for maximum deliciousness
  • Food Allergies?
    • Laura: none
    • Champagne: none
    • Duncan: none
    • Jeff: milk products (especially cheese)



  • Ice Axe w/ leash – General mountaineering tool.
  • Crampons – Compatible w/ ski boots (Tele or AT) and overboots
  • Climbing helmet
  • Accessory Cord – for prussiks and other rigging (ie: sleds)
  • Alpine Climbing Harness
  • Carabiners – locking and non-locking, D-shaped and ovals
  • Pulley – for crevasse rescue and rigging (little, light, cheap)
  • Picket(s)
  • Ice Screw(s) – and v-threader
  • Webbing
  • Ascender – One right or left-handed. May be optional, there is a section of fixed ropes we could use at the headwall.
  • Touring Skis
  • Ski Poles – can also be used as trekking poles
  • Climbing Skins
  • Avalanche Safety Gear: Beacon, Shovel and Probe


  • Ski Boots
  • Fully Insulated Overboots – must work with crampons, need to check if they work with Tele-boots
  • Gaiters – for lower on the mountain
  • Heavyweight Socks – a few pairs
  • Liner Socks – a few pairs
  • Vapour Barrier Socks
  • Camp Booties

Technical Clothing

  • Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear - tops bottoms, synthetic or wool. Good for hot days lower on the glacier, or for layering with the heavyweight on the upper mountain
  • Heavyweight Long Underwear – tops and bottoms, synthetic or wool
  • Soft Shell Jacket – midweight or heavyweight
  • Soft Shell Pants – midweight or heavyweight
  • Hard Shell jacket w/ hood – waterproof, breathable
  • Hard Shell Pants – waterproof, breathable or not
  • Down Jacket or Parka – fit over insulation layers
  • Down Pants or Insulated Synthetic Pant – to fit over insulation layers


  • Toque – should cover ears
  • Balaclavas – 1 lightweight, 1 heavyweight to layer
  • Bandanas, Buff, NeckGaiter, Hat, Nose Guard, etc – whatever you like to wear
  • Glacier Glasses – 100% UVA and UVB, w/ side covers
  • Ski Goggles – 100% UVA and UVB


  • Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves
  • Expedition Weight Gloves – with medium or heavy weight soft shell liner
  • Expedition Weight Mitts – for when gloves aren’t good enough
  • Lightweight Synthetic Gloves - for ski touring

Personal Equipment

  • Expedition Backpack (+80L)
  • Expedition Duffle Bag – for travelling and for the sled
  • Expedition Sleeping Bag – -20*C rating or better
  • Compression Stuff Sacks
  • Sleeping Pad – Closed cell foam or inflatable (or both)
  • Eating Gear – bowl and spoon/spork
  • Sunscreen – strong SPF, enough for 3 weeks, Lipscreen too
  • Water Bottles – Wide mouth to avoid freezing (ie: Nalgene)
  • Water Bottle Parka – insulated to prevent freezing
  • Pee Bottle – Wide mouth (for obvious reasons…), marked so you don’t drink from it
  • Pee Funnel – if you’re a girl (ie: Freshette)
  • Multitool with knife – tough, small, functional, and simple
  • Toiletry Bag – the basics: toothpaste, toothbrush, baby wipes, 3 weeks of toilet paper
  • Hand Sanitizer – or something similar
  • Emergency Hand warmers and Toe Warmers – just in case…
  • Trash Compactor bag(s) – tough, heavy bag(s) with many uses
  • Camera gear – light and simple, we probably don’t all need it
  • Books – so we don’t go insane
  • iPod – so we don’t go insane, only works if we can charge them
  • Headlamp – mostly for drive up, there’s sun around the clock in the Arctic


  • Travel Clothes – clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition
  • Backpack or small duffel – for travelling or to store personal stuff in Talkeetna while climbing

First Aid

  • Personal First-Aid Kit – Aspirin, band-aids, moleskin, etc…
  • Drugs, Acetazolamide, Dexamethasone, etc…


  • Expedition Tents – 4 season expedition tents, probably 2
    • Champagne - MWH Trango 2
  • Sleds – may come free with glacier flight
    • Champagne + Laura: talked to Pete Hudson and has two spare sleds we can use.
  • Large Compression Sacks – for making caches
  • Rope – probably 1 half, maybe 2
    • Champagne: 30m Beal Rando 8mm twin rope (Dry treated)
    • Jeff: 60m 8mm rope
  • Wands
  • Stoves – 2 or 3, white gas,interchangeable, must work in cold, wind, high altitude (ie: WhisperLite, SimmerLite, etc)
    • Champagne: MSR XGK stove
    • Jeff: MSR WhisperLite stove
  • Cooking Gear – probably just pots
  • Food – for 3 weeks plus, variation, mix of enjoyable, efficient, fun, etc; should be dried and lightweight
  • Group First Aid Kit – larger, more complete
  • SPOT (Champagne)
    • Need to look into getting GEOS coverage.
  • GPS
  • Radios – each person should have one
  • Batteries – for everything, for 3 weeks
  • Entertainment – cards, chess, checkers…etc; maybe a solar charger for iPods…



UBC Human Kinetics Research

High Altitude Acute Mountain Sickness Genetic Susceptibility

  • Duncan, Jeff and Champagne have participated in an ongoing AMS susceptibility study at UBC.
  • The researchers are interested in assisting the team with medical backup in return to doing some medical during the trip.
  • Will need to organize a meeting between both parties to see if we can make it happen.
    • Champagne will email them.
  • Extremely useful for grant applications.

Grants/fund raisers


  • Champagne will look into it.

ACC - Jen Higgins Memorial Fund

  • Laura will look into it.

Fund raisers

  • Jeff & Duncan will look into it.