Archive:Garibaldi Again

From VOC Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Garibaldi brewing up some clouds.
Crevasses on the Garibaldi Neve big enough to swallow buses in the summer with the NE face in the background.


Attempt #1: Turned around by white-out conditions and suffering feet.
Attempt #2: Turned around when we heard a massive avalanche come down the mountain in white-out conditions.
Attempt #3: Turned around by white-out conditions.
Attempt #4: Turned around by white-out conditions just below the bergshrund.

If you've ever been to Squamish, you've probably seen the massive pyramid shaped mountain in the background as you arrive in town. That mountain is Garibaldi and basically any sort of mountaineer in BC has or wants to climb it (it's just too awesome not to climb it). I've tried to climb it four times now, all of which resulted in failure. I've heard many VOCers expressing keen interest to give it a shot this year, along with ridiculous statements that we'll fix ropes all the way from the parking lot to the summit and we'll setting up a permanent camp on the glacier until good weather arrives (maybe we could do this for reading week attempt #6). Since I've got so much experience at failing to climb this mountain, I've decided that it's my duty to lead as many attempts as it takes to climb it. I now know the bumps along Brohm ridge far too well and can navigate them in complete white-out conditions (far enough to get us to a suitable camping area), but the rest of the mountain will require good weather (something Garibaldi is not known for). The route is glaciated, avalanche prone, requires navigation of a bergshrund, has a steep 45 degree headwall, is prone to creating its own white-out conditions even during good weather, and will be cold, so this will be intermediate friendly. For those of you who are keen, please join me in this years newest attempts.

If the weather doesn't look like it will cooperate, we'll reschedule the trip since there is no point in climbing the mountain in a white-out.

Skills Required

Someone who'd like to join this trip should have the following skills:

  • Avalanche training
  • Glacier travel training
  • Winter camping experience
  • General fitness


  • NE face of Garibaldi with an approach from Brohm Ridge (or depending on interest, we can do a neve crossing along the way).


  1. Be over the Lions gate bridge by 6am on Saturday
  2. Stop at Tim Hortons for breakfast (we need to keep tradition alive)
  3. Meet at the trailhead and ski up onto the glacier where we will setup camp
  4. Sunday morning will be spent climbing the headwall in groups of probably five or so and starting at first light
  5. Ski out and go home

The headwall is very close to where camp will be, so it shouldn't take long to climb. We'll probably split into different groups so that we aren't all on the face at the same time. I don't want to break any records for the number of people killed in an avalanche. The first group will need to start very early (I'm reserving my spot now to lead the first group).

Getting to the top is of course never a guarantee, but we will have a whole bunch of fun and learn a lot.

Pre-Trip Meeting

The Pre-Trip Meeting will be at 6:00pm on a Wednesday in the clubroom.

  • It is very important that you attend the pre-trip meeting as we'll be deciding on rides, accommodations (tent groups or hut), food groups, etc. We'll also decide the final number for this trip and we'll go over important details and skills.
  • If you're on the waitlist and attend the Pre-Trip meeting you'll probably get a spot (assuming the list doesn't get too much longer).
  • If you can't attend the Pre-Trip meeting but still want to go contact *todd at phas dot ubc dot ca* and one of the drivers to make sure you have a ride.

Gear Required

Check out the gear lists on the wiki for a mountaineering trip here: Gear lists

Remember, the VOC has lots of gear for rent in the clubroom. There are lots of crampons, ice axes, packs, harnesses, helmets, etc... available in the clubroom.


  • 1 set of non-cotton clothes (just the one set)
  • 1 additional fleece
  • long underwear
  • 1 additional very warm thing (down jacket or maybe several less warm things)
  • 1 extra pair of warm socks
  • water proof pants and jacket (even if the weather is suppose to be good)
  • toque (very important!!!)
  • 2 pairs (for when the first pair gets wet) of gloves (must be very warm)
  • ski boots


  • Tent (share with someone)
  • sleeping bag (of appropriate warm to you, it will proabably be about -15C at night)
  • sleeping pad


  • Sunscreen
  • Headlamp (very important!!!)
  • lip balm
  • sunglasses (very important!!!!)
  • camera
  • Toilet Paper (poo bags are mandatory, but we'll provide them for you)
  • Burly container or bags to store your poo bags in
  • Toothbrush
  • Lighter


  • ice axe (can borrow from club)
  • crampons (we can discuss whether to bring these at the pre-trip meeting)
  • climbing harness (can borrow from club)
  • helmet (can borrow from club)
  • prussiks
  • 2 non-locking and 2 locking carabiners (Ask to borrow from someone, or buy at MEC)
  • Snow pickets (if you have some)
  • Skis, boots, poles and skins or snowshoes and waterproof and warm mountaineering boots
  • Avy beacon, probe and shovel


  • stove + pot + fuel + lighter (or share with someone)
  • Thing to eat out of
  • spoon
  • Lunch, Dinner, Breakfast, Lunch (or join a food group)
  • Water


And a pack to put it all in.

Sign-up (with experience)

No Write.png Signup Closed
This is the sign up and organization page for an old trip. It already happened on 29-1-2011. Please do not sign up for it.

This trip is going to be limited to approximately 12 people. If you are on the waiting list and come to the pre-trip meeting, you'll probably get a spot since that's usually how things work out. If you are someone I know and who has already expressed keen interest (our VOC president, Phil, comes to mind), this also gets you a spot.

  1. Todd Mackenzie (AST1, glacier school and experience, winter camping experience, pickets and ropes)
  2. Secret awesome climber (glacier school and winter camping experience)
  3. Nick Matwyuk (confirmed beforehand with Todd)
  4. Andrew Maurer (confirmed beforehand with Todd)
  5. Nick Gobin (confirmed beforehand with Todd and has 4x4)
  6. Michael Duncan (confirmed beforehand with Todd)
  7. Liam Harrap
  8. Ryan McKenzie
  9. Marcin
  10. Len

Wait list

  1. Philippe LB
  2. Jacob Cramm
  3. Adrien Thevenet (just love Mount Garibaldi in the winter)
  4. Dean
  5. Pawel (have van that seats six total, avalanche and glacier-travel training, and "hardman" designation approved by Phil)
  6. Colin Pither
  7. Charlie Beard
  8. Christian S.
  9. Jonathon Doherty

Vehicle List and gear for the West

Jacob Cramm

  1. Len
  2. Marcin
  3. Andrew

Adrien Thevenet

  1. Ryan
  2. Dean

John Doherty

  1. Todd
  2. Liam
  3. Colin

Ropes: 3 x 30 meter glacier ropes. One provided by Adrien and two provided by Todd

Tents provided by whom and the number that fit into each:

  1. 2 - Todd
  2. 3 - Ryan
  3. 2 - Marcin
  4. 2 - Liam
  5. 2 - Adrien

Vehicle List for the East

Nick Gobin

  1. Nick
  2. Michael
  3. Charlie
  4. Pavel