Archive:Logan 2012
Tim Blair, Nicholas Matwyuk, Nicholas Gobin and Geoff Martin are planning to summit Mt. Logan. This page is being used to help them plan logistics.
Next Meeting: TBD
Contents
- 1 Travel Details
- 2 Trip Plan
- 3 Team Details
- 4 To Do List
- 5 Gear
- 6 Food
- 6.1 Requirements
- 6.1.1 Road Trip (Vancouver -> Logan)
- 6.1.2 Alpine (Logan)
- 6.1.3 Road Trip (Denali -> Vancouver)
- 6.1.4 First Aid
- 6.1.5 Entertainment
- 6.1.6 Repair Kits
- 6.1 Requirements
- 7 Grants/fund raisers
Travel Details
Weather
Schedule
- April 26 to May 27 total of 31 days including travel. Google Docs Schedule
Trip Plan
Team Details
- Geoffrey Martin
- Nicholas Gobin
- Nicholas Matwyuk
- Tim Blair
Emergency Phone Numbers and Info
- Tim
- Gobin - see member page
- Matwyuk - see member page
- Geoff
To Do List
Kluane National Park Registration - Dec.
- Park Fees
- Park Fee: $68.70/person
- Landing Fee: $29.40/party/landing
- Mountaineering Info
- Due minimum of 90 days before the climb (Jan 26th, 2012)
Flights - Dec.
- Need to call carriers to find out about prices. Also ask about flying with white gas as it will not likely be for sale at base camp.
Vehicle - Dec
- Geoff is getting a Subaru
- Gobin has an Escape
- Will try to get away with one vehicle. The Denali crew estimated $800 worth of fuel.
Medical Needs - New Year
- Everyone should have a physical done
- Need up to date tetanus shot
- Can be referred to the Vancouver High Altitude Medicine Clinic if it's helpful
This consultation is not covered by the BC medical service plan (MSP) unless your physician faxes a referral letter to f-604.822.9058. We just need to contact Mike and his clinic and they will book us in for free (however, if we go through our doctors, Mike actually gets paid).
- Need certain prescription drugs
Food Planning - New Year
- Figure out each persons daily needs
- Design menus
- Menu needs food for easy days, hard days, quick days, and slow days
- Menu should have variety and include meals satisfying different needs based on the kind of day
- Divide dinner menus amongst ourselves giving each person responsibility over several meals for everyone
- Food should be made from scratch and dried for maximum deliciousness
- Food Allergies?
- Tim: Mild dairy allergy.
- Matwyuk: Peanuts (not deadly, no epi pen required)
- Gobin: nil
- Geoff: milk products (especially cheese)
Insurances Coverage - New Year
- Basic Emergency & Medical Insurance through The Cooperators as MEC members
- Cost: $53.01/individual for 1 month ($1.75 x 30 days)
- Optional plans (trip interruption, Cancellation, Accidental Death & Dismemberment) available.
- GEO Search and Rescue (SAR) Benefit
- Cost: US$13.95/SPOT (annual)
- Terms & Conditions
- GEOS MEDIVAC+
- Cost: US$67.50/individual for 1 month (US$2.25 x 30 days)
- Terms & Conditions
Gear
Find the GoogleDocs version here: Schedule and Gear List
Personal
Skis
- 1 pair of Touring Skis
- 1 pair of Ski Boots
- 1 pair of Ski Crampons
- 1 pair of Ski Poles – can also be used as trekking poles
- 1 pair of Climbing Skins
- 1 Shovel
- 1 Avalanche Probe
- 1 skiing sled
- 1 Expedition Duffle Bag – for travelling and for the sled
Mountaineering
- 1 Expedition Backpack (+80L)
- Compression Stuff Sacks - For clothes, gear & caches.
- 2 Emergency Hand warmers and Toe Warmers – optional
- Trash Compactor bag(s) – tough, heavy bag(s) with many uses - optional?
- 1 lightweight ice axe w/ leash – General mountaineering tool.
- 1 pair of crampons – Compatible w/ ski boots (Tele or AT) and overboots
- 1 climbing helmet
- Accessory Cord – for prussiks and other rigging (ie: sleds)
- 1 alpine Climbing Harness
- 2 prussiks
- 2 small locking biners
- 1 large locking biner
- 1 double length sling
- 2 non-lockers biners
- Pulley – for crevasse rescue and rigging (little, light, cheap)
- Picket (one each, 2' or 3'?)
- Ice Screw(s) – and v-threader
- Webbing
- Camera gear
- Matwyuk to bring D7000
- Geoff to bring bomber Canon P&S
- Tim has small Olympus
Footwear
- 1 pair of fully insulated overboots – must work with crampons, need to check if they work with Tele-boots (40Below)
- 1 pair of gaiters – optional
- 2 pairs of Heavyweight Socks
- 2 pairs of liner Socks
- 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Socks - optional
- 1 pair of Camp Booties. MEC good but Western Mountaineering are awesome. Need to add thin closed cell foam as footbed for extra insulation.
Technical Clothing
- 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Top
- 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Bottom
- synthetic or wool. Good for hot days lower on the glacier, or for layering with the heavyweight on the upper mountain
- 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Top – synthetic or wool
- 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Bottom – synthetic or wool
- 2 (or more) pairs of underwear - boxers or briefs.
- 1 Soft Shell Jacket w/ hood – midweight or heavyweight
- 1 Soft Shell Pants – midweight or heavyweight
- 1 Hard Shell jacket w/ hood – waterproof, breathable
- 1 Hard Shell Pants – waterproof, breathable or not
- 1 Down Jacket or Parka – fit over insulation layers
- 1 Down Pants or Insulated Synthetic Pant – to fit over insulation layers
Headwear
- 1 Toque – should cover ears
- 2 Balaclavas (and/or merino Buff?)
- 1 lightweight
- 1 heavyweight to layer
- 1 Sunhat/sunshield
- 1 Nose Guard
- 1 Bandana
- 1 Glacier Glasses – 100% UVA and UVB, w/ side covers
- 1 Ski Goggles – 100% UVA and UVB
Handwear
- 1 pair of Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves
- 1 pair of Expedition Weight Gloves – with medium or heavy weight soft shell liner
- 1 pair of Expedition Weight Mitts – for when gloves aren’t good enough
- 1 pair of Lightweight Synthetic Gloves - for ski touring and sun protection
- 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Gloves - It's freakin' cold.
Sleeping
- 1 Expedition Sleeping Bag – -30*C rating or better
- 1 Compression Sack - For Sleeping Bag
- 1 Vapour Barrier Liner - prevents condensation in sleeping bag
- 1 or 2 Sleeping Pad(s) – Optional if tent floor covered
- 1 Eyemask - It's bright 24/7 up there.
- 1 headlamp
- Sunrise/Sunset is from 0500-2200 at the beginning of the trip, and 0445-2315 at the end of the trip. Dusk is very long in the arctic.
Toiletry
- 1 Toothbrush
- 1 tube of toothpaste (for 30 days)
- Dental floss
- TP (for 30 days)
- 1 lighter
- 1 Hand Sanitizer
- Sunscreen +30 SPF (for 30 days)
- 1 Lip balm w/ +30 SPF
- 1 Nail clipper
- 1 Hand moisturizer w/ Aloe
- Baby wipes - Individually packaged s.t. they can be warmed up before use.
- 1 Deodorant (optional)
- 1 Pee Bottle – Wide mouth (for obvious reasons…), marked so you don’t drink from it
Cooking
- 1 Bowl/measuring cup
- 1 insulated EVA closed foam for bowl/measuring cup
- 1 spoon (or spork)
- Bring a spare (metal is a good idea)
- 1 small knife (or multitool)
- 2 Water Bottles – Wide mouth to avoid freezing (ie: Nalgene)
- 2 Water Bottle Parkas – insulated to prevent freezing (i.e. Outdoor Research or 40 Below)
Travelling (Road Trip)
- Travel Clothes – clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition
- Backpack or small duffel – for traveling or to store personal stuff while climbing
- 1 Headlamp – mostly for drive up, there’s sun around the clock in the Arctic
First Aid
- TBD
Group
Mountaineering
- Large Compression Sacks – for making caches
- Ropes – 2 x 30m x 8mm (Nick Matywuk + Gobin - 1 each)
- Wands
Sleeping
- 2 4-Season Expedition Tents
- Geoff - MEC Lightfield
- Tim - Hilleberg Staika
- 2 Aluminum snow stakes per tent
- 2 flood tent EVA closed cell foam pad (3 mm (1/8') thickness)
- Talk to Intuition or 40Below
- 1 GPS
- Garmin Etrex Legend (Matwyuk)
- 1 SPOT Satellite Messenger
- Maybe 2? Tim, Gobin, Geoff, Matwyuk all have one
- 4 Radios – each person should have one
- Batteries – for everything, for 3 weeks
- 1 Solar charger?
- 1 compass w/ inclinometer
- 1 altimeter
- 4 whistles - one each
- Maps
- 1:250,000 Mount St Elias (115 B&C)
- 1:250,000 Kluane National Park & Reserve Lake (115 F&G)
- Look into 1:50,000
- Guidebook(s)
Cooking
- 1 Cooking tent
- Black Diamond Mega Light Shelter (Matwyuk)
- 4 1' Aluminum Snow Stakes
- 3 High-Altitude Stoves
- Geoff: 1 MSR XKG stove
- Tim: 1 XGK
- Lighters
- Matwyuk: 1 Primus Ignition Steel Fire Starter
- 1 MSR Heat Exchanger
- 3 MSR Windscreens
- 3 Pots
- 2 MEC Hot Pot Cookwear insulator
- 3 stove snow platforms
- White Gas - Quantity TBD
- Empty 2L pop bottles - Quantity TBD (Flying with white gas is important question)
- 1 GSI Compact Scraper
- Tim: 1 Large capacity (10L) water bladder
- 1 Black plastic bag for snow melting
- 1 Pristine ClO2 60ml Water Treatment or Katadyn?
Food
Requirements
Road Trip (Vancouver -> Logan)
- X Breakfasts
- X Lunches
- X Dinners
Alpine (Logan)
- XX Breakfasts
- XX Lunches
- XX Dinners
Food Ideas
Breakfast:
Cream of Wheat, Rice or Rye, Oatmeal, hominy grits, Couscous, Granola, Muesli, Cold cereal, Pancake mix, dried fruits
Dinner:
Pasta, Instant Bean, Instant Lentils, Falafel, Barley, Hummus, Couscous, Bulgur, Instant Potato Flakes, Instant Rice, Textured vegetable protein, tortillas.
Cheese:
Farmer, Jack, Cheddar, Swiss, Mozzarella, Parmesan, Smoked Gouda.
Trail foods:
Nuts, Seeds, Dried fruits, crackers, corn & soy nuts, cookies, energy bars, candy.
Sugar & powdered fruit drinks:
Brown & white sugar, lemonade, Tang, Apple Cider, Gatorade, Nuun, hot chocolate, Jell-O, tea, Kool-Aid, Crystal Light.
Soups, Bases, Dried Vegetables & Desserts:
- Soups: Knorr, No Name, Lipton, Cup-of-soups, Ramen, bulk (chicken, beef, vegetable)
- Bases/broth packets/broth cubes: powdered tomato base, packaged sauce w/ seasoning mixes
- Dried Vegetables: mixed vegetable, mushrooms, peppers, carrot, tomatoes, peas, etc.
- Desserts: cheesecake mix, brownie mix, Gingerbread mix, carrot cake mix, instant pudding, gelatin mix
Milk, Eggs, Margarine & Cocoa:
Powdered Whole Milk, powdered eggs, margarine, cocoa, flavored coffee drinks, Coffee,
Meat & substitutes:
Sliced pepperoni, cooked bacon bits (real), sausage crumbles, beef jerky, Tempeh, nut butters.
Spices:
Salt, Pepper, Garlic Powder, Chili powder, Curry, Cinnamon, Spike, Oregano, Basil, Cumin powder, powdered mustard, dill weed, Cayenne.
Liquids:
Oil, Vinegar, Soy sauce, Vanilla, Tabasco/hot sauce.
Supplements:
Multivitamin, glucosamine (optional), cold assist (optional)
Geoff
Average daily consumption
- 380g Breakfast
- XXXg Lunch
- 400g Dinner
Alpine Breakfasts
- TBD
Alpine Lunches
- TBD
Alpine Dinners
- TBD
Gobin
Average daily consumption
- XXXg Breakfast
- XXXg Lunch
- XXXg Dinner
Alpine Breakfasts
- TBD
Alpine Lunches
- TBD
Alpine Dinners
- TBD
Matwyuk
Average daily consumption
- 250g Breakfast
- 500g Lunch
- 400g Dinner
Alpine Breakfasts
- TBD
Alpine Lunches
- TBD
Alpine Dinners
- TBD
Tim
Average daily consumption
- XXXg Breakfast
- XXXg Lunch
- XXXg Dinner
Alpine Breakfasts
- TBD
Alpine Lunches
- TBD
Alpine Dinners
- TBD
Road Trip (Denali -> Vancouver)
- X Breakfasts
- X Lunches
- X Dinners
First Aid
Drugs
Analgesics
- Ibuprofen (Motrin, 400mg) - For muscle aches, inflammations and fever - cause water retention, which may aggravate AMS & HAPE
- Aspirin (650mg) - For fever or headaches
- Morphine (Matwyuk)
- T3's (Matwyuk)
Antimicrobial Preparations
- Cephalexin (Keflex, 500mg) - Antibiotic used to treat staphylococcal and streptococcal skin and soft-tissue inflections and urinary tract infections.
Gastroinstestinal Medications
- Loperamide (Imodium, 2mg) - Helps control diarrhea.
Cardiac and Respiratory Agents
- Acetazolamide (Diamox, 125 mg) - Reduces severity of AMS symptoms & provides sleep relief.
- Dexamethasone (Decadron, 4 mg) - For treatment of severe AMS and HACE, but doesn't promote acclimatization as Acetazolmanide.
- Nifedipine (Procardia & Adalat, 30mg) - Reduces the incidence of HAPE.
Others
- Cyclizine (Marezine, 50 mg) - Antihistamine drug to treat allergic reactions and motion sickness
- Personal Medication
Bandages Material
- 4 Non-adherent Sterile gauze pads, 3" x 4"
- 8 Sterile gauze pads, 4" squares, Pkg./2
- 8 Sterile gauze pads, 2" squares, Pkg./2
- 2 Sterile Eye Pads
- 2 Sterile Conforming Gauze, 3"
- 20 Adhesive Bandage, 1" x 3"
- 10 Adhesive Bandage, Knuckle
Bleeding
- 3 Pairs of Nitrile Gloves
- 3 Hand Wipes
- 1 Trauma Pad, 8" x 10"
- 1 Trauma Pad, 5" x 9"
Blister/Burn
- 2 Spenco Second Skin (Large Oval)
- 6 Moleskin, 4" squares
- 1 Molefoam, 5" x 6"
- 1 Aloe Vera Gel w/ Lidocaine, 1 oz
- 1 roll of Athletic tape
CPR
- 1 CPR Face Shield, Laerdal
Dental
- 1 Temporary Cavity Filling Mixture
Fracture/Sprain
- 1 Elastic Tensor Band w/ Velcro, 3"
- 1 Elastic Tensor Band w/ Velcro, 2"
- 1 SAM Split, 4" x 36"
- 2 Triangular Bandages
Instruments
- 1 Surgical forceps & tweezers
- 1 Oral Thermometer
- 1 EMT Shears, 4"
- 3 Safety pins
- 1 Pencil
- 1 Magnifying glass
- 1 Penlight
- 1 Sterile Disposable Scalpel w/ #11 blade
- 1 Sterile 20cc Syringe w/ 18 Gauge tip
- Plastic Oropharyngeal airway(s)
- Tongue blades
- Zip-Lock bags
Medical Information
- 1 Patient Assessment Form
- 1 Instruction list for all drugs
- 1 Instruction list for more complicated bandaging supplies
- Books(?)
- Photocopied pages from Medicine for Mountaineering & Other Wilderness Activities (6th Ed.)
- NOLS - Wilderness Medicine
- Backcountry First Aid & Extended Care (5th Ed.)
- 1 Accident Flowchart
Wound Care
- 10 Antiseptic wipes
- 3 Tincture of Benzoin Topical Adhesive
- 3 Povidone Iodine, 0.75 oz
- 2 Butterfly (Steri-) strips, 1/4" x 4", Pkg./10
- 4 Sterile Cotton Tip Applicators
- 1 roll of Porous Adhesive tape, 2" width
- Wound Antiseptic (Betadine) - 2 to 4 ounces
Entertainment
- 1 deck of cards (micro or Freedom of the hills)
- Scrabble and Chess boards on therm-a-rests
Repair Kits
- Voile straps - Length & Quantity TBD
- 1 medium roll of duct tape
- 1 large multitool
- 1 mini screwdriver bit holder
- 2 #3 Pozidriv bits
- 1 large flathead bit
- 1 small flathead bit
- 1 regular Philips bit
- 1 Torx T10 mini star drive bit (for Dynafit heel top plate)
- 6' of bailing wire
- 1 ski sled kit
- 10' of 2mm accessory cord
- 1 lighter
- 1 file (sharping crampons)
- 1 p-tex stick
- 2 silver/black sharpies
- 3' of elastic cord
- 1 small voltmeter (for solar charger)
- 1 CR2032 battery (for wristwatch)
Ski repairs
Voile Switchback bindings
- 1 Voile Switchback cartridge/wire/heel-piece (Matwyuk)
- 2 Voile Switchback binding screws
Dynafit bindings
- 1 complete Dynafit Vertical ST spare binding
- 1 Dynafit Vertical ST Volcano (plastic heel riser)
- 1 rubber tube for Dynafit pulks (Scarpa F3 boots)
- 2 Dynafit binding screws
- 1 tube of 5 min epoxy
- 2 popsicle sticks (mixing epoxy)
Ski poles
- 1 BD spare ski pole
- 1 BD spare ski basket
- 2 2" ski pole size hose clamps
- 1 6" ski pole section (hacksawed)
Skins
- 1 G3 Tail
- 1 BD Tail
- 2 BD Loops (sizes?)
- 1 BD Skin Globstopper (candle?)
- 1 speedy stitcher
Boots
- 2 6" hose clamps
- 4 walk mode switches
- 1 for Scarpa F3
- 1 for ??
- 1 for ??
- 1 for ??
- 2 washer/nut/bolt combo - TBD (for blown ankle rivets)
Clothing repairs
- Gore-Tex patches
- 1 post-mydriatic sunglasses
- 1 Exped Expedition Sewing Kit
Tent repairs
- 2 spare tent pole segment (1 for each tent)
- 1 tube (60 ml, 0.5 oz) of Seam Grip Seam Sure Seam Sealer
- 2 tent pole sleeves (1 for each tent)
Sleeping repairs
- 6 sticky patches
- 8 non-sticky patches
- 1 textile glue
- 2 Therm-A-Rest Hot Bond Adhesive
- 1 Therm-A-Rest Repair Kit Instructions
- 1 spare Therm-A-Rest valve
Cooking repairs
- 1 MSR WhisperLite Expedition Service kit
- 1 MSR XGK EX Expedition Service kit
- 1 MSR Stove Annual Maintenance kit
- 2 extra bottle caps
- 1 MSR fuel pump
or
- 2 extra bottle caps
- 2 stove tool
- 4 control valve O-rings
- 5 fuel tube O-rings
- 3 fuel bottle O-rings
- 2 pump seal
- 2 fuel jets (?)
- 1 check valve
- 1 flame spreader
- 1 dip tube
- 1 pump cup oil
- 2 safety pins
- 1 shaker jet
- 1 fuel tube bushing
- 1 pump cup
- 1 jet cleaning wire
- 2 Instruction sheets
- 1 MSR Whisperlite
- 1 MSR XGK
Backpack repairs
- 2 waist belt buckles
- 1 small buckle
- 1 dee clip strap
- 2 draw strip clamps
- 20' of shoe lace (or 3mm accessory cord)
Grants/fund raisers
- Any ideas?
Fund raisers
- Any ideas?