Archive:Logan 2012

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Revision as of 10:28, 24 January 2012 by Lommer (talk | contribs) (Flights - Dec.)
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Tim Blair, Nicholas Matwyuk, Nick Gobin and Geoff Martin are planning to summit Mt. Logan. This page is being used to help them plan logistics.

Next Meeting: TBD

Travel Details

Weather

Schedule

Trip Plan

Matwyuk's SPOT Page

Team Details

  • Geoffrey Martin
  • Nicholas Gobin
  • Nicholas Matwyuk
  • Tim Blair

Emergency Phone Numbers and Info

  • Tim
  • Gobin - see member page
  • Matwyuk - see member page
  • Geoff

To Do List

  • Tim
    • Overboots (waiting on Matwyuk)
    • Scan pages from St. Elias Book
    • Maps
    • New Tent Poles
    • BCMC Sat phone (type and availability) (we want iridium, not globalstar - it has worse voice quality but better arctic coverage)
  • Gobin
    • Park Passes
    • Overboots (waiting on Matwyuk)
    • Intuition Tent Pad Foamie (get Hilleberg Staika dims from site)
    • Rivets from leather store near intuition
    • Talk to pilot about fuel transportation (oem packaging?)
  • Matwyuk
    • Overboots - Borrowing Duncans.
    • Grommets for carpets
    • Talk Champagne stove apparatus - Approved
    • First aid kit medication from Duncan
    • Talk to Ben about sled bag material - Seattle Fabrics Heat Seal-able Nylon
  • Geoff
    • 1 long and 1 short krazy karpets, grommets, and rivets
    • Sorting out life (i.e. employment)

Kluane National Park Registration - Dec.

  • Park Fees
  • Park Fee: $68.70/person
  • Landing Fee: $29.40/party/landing

Flights - Dec.

  • Need to call carriers to find out about prices. Also ask about flying with white gas as it will not likely be for sale at base camp.
  • Andy Williams - Icefields Incorporated
    • (867) 633-2018
    • Predicted price of $1050 per flight to King Trench Base Camp (~1.9 hrs each way). Can Carry 2 climbers + gear per flight. Flies a Helio Courier out of Silver City, YT.
    • Vehicle Parking?
    • Flying with Fuel?
  • Mountain Flying Service
    • Flies a Bush Hawk XP out of Haines, AK. Costs $1500USD per flight, must land on the US side of the border which is ~6mi & 800ft elevation (10km & 250m) from the normal King Trench base camp. Must drive to Skagway + Ferry to Haines. Can carry 2 climbers + gear per flight. May be able to carry 5 climbers + gear in 2 loads.

Vehicle - Dec

  • Geoff is getting a Subaru
  • Gobin has an Escape
  • Will try to get away with one vehicle. The Denali crew estimated $800 worth of fuel.

Medical Needs - New Year

This consultation is not covered by the BC medical service plan (MSP) unless your physician faxes a referral letter to f-604.822.9058. We just need to contact Mike and his clinic and they will book us in for free (however, if we go through our doctors, Mike actually gets paid).

  • Need certain prescription drugs

Food Planning - New Year

  • Figure out each persons daily needs
  • Design menus
  • Menu needs food for easy days, hard days, quick days, and slow days
  • Menu should have variety and include meals satisfying different needs based on the kind of day
  • Divide dinner menus amongst ourselves giving each person responsibility over several meals for everyone
  • Food should be made from scratch and dried for maximum deliciousness
  • Food Allergies?
    • Tim: Mild dairy allergy.
    • Matwyuk: Peanuts (not deadly, no epi pen required)
    • Gobin: nil
    • Geoff: milk products (especially cheese)

Insurances Coverage - New Year

Gear

Find the GoogleDocs version here: Schedule and Gear List

Personal

Skis

  • 1 pair of Touring Skis
  • 1 pair of Ski Boots
  • 1 pair of Ski Crampons
  • 1 pair of Ski Poles – can also be used as trekking poles
  • 1 pair of Climbing Skins
  • 1 Shovel
  • 1 Avalanche Probe
  • 1 skiing sled
  • 1 Expedition Duffle Bag – for travelling and for the sled

Mountaineering

  • 1 Expedition Backpack (+80L)
  • Compression Stuff Sacks - For clothes, gear & caches.
  • 2 Emergency Hand warmers and Toe Warmers – optional
  • Trash Compactor bag(s) – tough, heavy bag(s) with many uses - optional?
  • 1 lightweight ice axe w/ leash – General mountaineering tool.
  • 1 pair of crampons – Compatible w/ ski boots (Tele or AT) and overboots
  • 1 climbing helmet
  • Accessory Cord – for prussiks and other rigging (ie: sleds)
  • 1 alpine Climbing Harness
  • 2 prussiks
  • 2 small locking biners
  • 1 large locking biner
  • 1 double length sling
  • 2 non-lockers biners
  • Pulley – for crevasse rescue and rigging (little, light, cheap)
  • Picket (one each, 2' or 3'?)
  • Ice Screw(s) – and v-threader
  • Webbing
  • Camera gear
    • Matwyuk to bring D7000
    • Geoff to bring bomber Canon P&S
    • Tim has small Olympus

Footwear

  • 1 pair of fully insulated overboots – must work with crampons, need to check if they work with Tele-boots (40Below)
  • 1 pair of gaiters – optional
  • 2 pairs of Heavyweight Socks
  • 2 pairs of liner Socks
  • 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Socks - optional
  • 1 pair of Camp Booties. MEC good but Western Mountaineering are awesome. Need to add thin closed cell foam as footbed for extra insulation.

Technical Clothing

  • 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Top
  • 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Bottom
    • synthetic or wool. Good for hot days lower on the glacier, or for layering with the heavyweight on the upper mountain
  • 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Top – synthetic or wool
  • 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Bottom – synthetic or wool
  • 2 (or more) pairs of underwear - boxers or briefs.
  • 1 Soft Shell Jacket w/ hood – midweight or heavyweight
  • 1 Soft Shell Pants – midweight or heavyweight
  • 1 Hard Shell jacket w/ hood – waterproof, breathable
  • 1 Hard Shell Pants – waterproof, breathable or not
  • 1 Down Jacket or Parka – fit over insulation layers
  • 1 Down Pants or Insulated Synthetic Pant – to fit over insulation layers

Headwear

  • 1 Toque – should cover ears
  • 2 Balaclavas (and/or merino Buff?)
    • 1 lightweight
    • 1 heavyweight to layer
  • 1 Sunhat/sunshield
  • 1 Nose Guard
  • 1 Bandana
  • 1 Glacier Glasses – 100% UVA and UVB, w/ side covers
  • 1 Ski Goggles – 100% UVA and UVB

Handwear

  • 1 pair of Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves
  • 1 pair of Expedition Weight Gloves – with medium or heavy weight soft shell liner
  • 1 pair of Expedition Weight Mitts – for when gloves aren’t good enough
  • 1 pair of Lightweight Synthetic Gloves - for ski touring and sun protection
  • 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Gloves - It's freakin' cold.

Sleeping

  • 1 Expedition Sleeping Bag – -30*C rating or better
  • 1 Compression Sack - For Sleeping Bag
  • 1 Vapour Barrier Liner - prevents condensation in sleeping bag
  • 1 or 2 Sleeping Pad(s) – Optional if tent floor covered
  • 1 Eyemask - It's bright 24/7 up there.
  • 1 headlamp
    • Sunrise/Sunset is from 0600-2200 at the beginning of the trip, and 0445-2315 at the end of the trip. Dusk is ~1 hour. [1]

Toiletry

  • 1 Toothbrush
  • 1 tube of toothpaste (for 30 days)
  • Dental floss
  • TP (for 30 days)
  • 1 lighter
  • 1 Hand Sanitizer
  • Sunscreen +30 SPF (for 30 days)
  • 1 Lip balm w/ +30 SPF
  • 1 Nail clipper
  • 1 Hand moisturizer w/ Aloe
  • Baby wipes - Individually packaged s.t. they can be warmed up before use.
  • 1 Deodorant (optional)
  • 1 Pee Bottle – Wide mouth (for obvious reasons…), marked so you don’t drink from it

Cooking

  • 1 Bowl/measuring cup
  • 1 insulated EVA closed foam for bowl/measuring cup
  • 1 spoon (or spork)
    • Bring a spare (metal is a good idea)
  • 1 small knife (or multitool)
  • 2 Water Bottles – Wide mouth to avoid freezing (ie: Nalgene)
  • 2 Water Bottle Parkas – insulated to prevent freezing (i.e. Outdoor Research or 40 Below)

Travelling (Road Trip)

  • Travel Clothes – clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition
  • Backpack or small duffel – for traveling or to store personal stuff while climbing
  • 1 Headlamp – mostly for drive up, there’s sun around the clock in the Arctic

First Aid

  • TBD

Group

Mountaineering

  • Large Compression Sacks – for making caches
  • Ropes – 2 x 30m x 8mm (Nick Matywuk + Gobin - 1 each)
  • Wands

Sleeping

  • 2 4-Season Expedition Tents
    • Geoff - MEC Lightfield
    • Tim - Hilleberg Staika
  • 2 Aluminum snow stakes per tent
  • 2 flood tent EVA closed cell foam pad (3 mm (1/8') thickness)
    • Talk to Intuition or 40Below

Navigation

  • 1 GPS
    • Garmin Etrex Legend (Matwyuk)
  • 1 SPOT Satellite Messenger
    • Maybe 2? Tim, Gobin, Geoff, Matwyuk all have one
  • 4 Radios – each person should have one
  • Batteries – for everything, for 3 weeks
  • 1 Solar charger?
  • 1 compass w/ inclinometer
  • 1 altimeter
  • 4 whistles - one each
  • Maps
    • 1:250,000 Mount St Elias (115 B&C)
    • 1:250,000 Kluane National Park & Reserve Lake (115 F&G)
    • Look into 1:50,000
  • Guidebook(s)

Cooking

  • 1 Cooking tent
    • Black Diamond Mega Light Shelter (Matwyuk)
    • 4 1' Aluminum Snow Stakes
  • 3 High-Altitude Stoves
    • Geoff: 1 MSR XKG stove
    • Tim: 1 XGK
  • Lighters
    • Matwyuk: 1 Primus Ignition Steel Fire Starter
  • 1 MSR Heat Exchanger
  • 3 MSR Windscreens
  • 3 Pots
  • 2 MEC Hot Pot Cookwear insulator
  • 3 stove snow platforms
  • White Gas - Quantity TBD
    • Empty 2L pop bottles - Quantity TBD (Flying with white gas is important question)
  • 1 GSI Compact Scraper
    • Tim: 1 Large capacity (10L) water bladder
  • 1 Black plastic bag for snow melting
  • 1 Pristine ClO2 60ml Water Treatment or Katadyn?

Food

Requirements

Road Trip (Vancouver -> Logan)

  • X Breakfasts
  • X Lunches
  • X Dinners

Alpine (Logan)

  • XX Breakfasts
  • XX Lunches
  • XX Dinners

Food Ideas

Breakfast:
Cream of Wheat, Rice or Rye, Oatmeal, hominy grits, Couscous, Granola, Muesli, Cold cereal, Pancake mix, dried fruits

Dinner:
Pasta, Instant Bean, Instant Lentils, Falafel, Barley, Hummus, Couscous, Bulgur, Instant Potato Flakes, Instant Rice, Textured vegetable protein, tortillas.

Cheese:
Farmer, Jack, Cheddar, Swiss, Mozzarella, Parmesan, Smoked Gouda.

Trail foods:
Nuts, Seeds, Dried fruits, crackers, corn & soy nuts, cookies, energy bars, candy.

Sugar & powdered fruit drinks:
Brown & white sugar, lemonade, Tang, Apple Cider, Gatorade, Nuun, hot chocolate, Jell-O, tea, Kool-Aid, Crystal Light.

Soups, Bases, Dried Vegetables & Desserts:

  • Soups: Knorr, No Name, Lipton, Cup-of-soups, Ramen, bulk (chicken, beef, vegetable)
  • Bases/broth packets/broth cubes: powdered tomato base, packaged sauce w/ seasoning mixes
  • Dried Vegetables: mixed vegetable, mushrooms, peppers, carrot, tomatoes, peas, etc.
  • Desserts: cheesecake mix, brownie mix, Gingerbread mix, carrot cake mix, instant pudding, gelatin mix

Milk, Eggs, Margarine & Cocoa:
Powdered Whole Milk, powdered eggs, margarine, cocoa, flavored coffee drinks, Coffee,

Meat & substitutes:
Sliced pepperoni, cooked bacon bits (real), sausage crumbles, beef jerky, Tempeh, nut butters.

Spices:
Salt, Pepper, Garlic Powder, Chili powder, Curry, Cinnamon, Spike, Oregano, Basil, Cumin powder, powdered mustard, dill weed, Cayenne.

Liquids:
Oil, Vinegar, Soy sauce, Vanilla, Tabasco/hot sauce.

Supplements:
Multivitamin, glucosamine (optional), cold assist (optional)

Geoff

Average daily consumption

  • 380g Breakfast
  • XXXg Lunch
  • 400g Dinner

Alpine Breakfasts

  • TBD

Alpine Lunches

  • TBD

Alpine Dinners

  • TBD

Gobin

Average daily consumption

  • XXXg Breakfast
  • XXXg Lunch
  • XXXg Dinner

Alpine Breakfasts

  • TBD

Alpine Lunches

  • TBD

Alpine Dinners

  • TBD

Matwyuk

Average daily consumption

  • 250g Breakfast
  • 500g Lunch
  • 400g Dinner

Alpine Breakfasts

  • TBD

Alpine Lunches

  • TBD

Alpine Dinners

  • TBD

Tim

Average daily consumption

  • XXXg Breakfast
  • XXXg Lunch
  • XXXg Dinner

Alpine Breakfasts

  • TBD

Alpine Lunches

  • TBD

Alpine Dinners

  • TBD

Road Trip (Denali -> Vancouver)

  • X Breakfasts
  • X Lunches
  • X Dinners

First Aid

Drugs

Analgesics
  • Ibuprofen (Motrin, 400mg) - For muscle aches, inflammations and fever - cause water retention, which may aggravate AMS & HAPE
  • Aspirin (650mg) - For fever or headaches
  • Morphine (Matwyuk)
  • T3's (Matwyuk)
Antimicrobial Preparations
  • Cephalexin (Keflex, 500mg) - Antibiotic used to treat staphylococcal and streptococcal skin and soft-tissue inflections and urinary tract infections.
Gastroinstestinal Medications
  • Loperamide (Imodium, 2mg) - Helps control diarrhea.
Cardiac and Respiratory Agents
  • Acetazolamide (Diamox, 125 mg) - Reduces severity of AMS symptoms & provides sleep relief.
  • Dexamethasone (Decadron, 4 mg) - For treatment of severe AMS and HACE, but doesn't promote acclimatization as Acetazolmanide.
  • Nifedipine (Procardia & Adalat, 30mg) - Reduces the incidence of HAPE.
Others
  • Cyclizine (Marezine, 50 mg) - Antihistamine drug to treat allergic reactions and motion sickness
  • Personal Medication

Bandages Material

  • 4 Non-adherent Sterile gauze pads, 3" x 4"
  • 8 Sterile gauze pads, 4" squares, Pkg./2
  • 8 Sterile gauze pads, 2" squares, Pkg./2
  • 2 Sterile Eye Pads
  • 2 Sterile Conforming Gauze, 3"
  • 20 Adhesive Bandage, 1" x 3"
  • 10 Adhesive Bandage, Knuckle

Bleeding

  • 3 Pairs of Nitrile Gloves
  • 3 Hand Wipes
  • 1 Trauma Pad, 8" x 10"
  • 1 Trauma Pad, 5" x 9"

Blister/Burn

  • 2 Spenco Second Skin (Large Oval)
  • 6 Moleskin, 4" squares
  • 1 Molefoam, 5" x 6"
  • 1 Aloe Vera Gel w/ Lidocaine, 1 oz
  • 1 roll of Athletic tape

CPR

  • 1 CPR Face Shield, Laerdal

Dental

  • 1 Temporary Cavity Filling Mixture

Fracture/Sprain

  • 1 Elastic Tensor Band w/ Velcro, 3"
  • 1 Elastic Tensor Band w/ Velcro, 2"
  • 1 SAM Split, 4" x 36"
  • 2 Triangular Bandages

Instruments

  • 1 Surgical forceps & tweezers
  • 1 Oral Thermometer
  • 1 EMT Shears, 4"
  • 3 Safety pins
  • 1 Pencil
  • 1 Magnifying glass
  • 1 Penlight
  • 1 Sterile Disposable Scalpel w/ #11 blade
  • 1 Sterile 20cc Syringe w/ 18 Gauge tip
  • Plastic Oropharyngeal airway(s)
  • Tongue blades
  • Zip-Lock bags

Medical Information

  • 1 Patient Assessment Form
  • 1 Instruction list for all drugs
  • 1 Instruction list for more complicated bandaging supplies
  • Books(?)
    • Photocopied pages from Medicine for Mountaineering & Other Wilderness Activities (6th Ed.)
    • NOLS - Wilderness Medicine
    • Backcountry First Aid & Extended Care (5th Ed.)
  • 1 Accident Flowchart

Wound Care

  • 10 Antiseptic wipes
  • 3 Tincture of Benzoin Topical Adhesive
  • 3 Povidone Iodine, 0.75 oz
  • 2 Butterfly (Steri-) strips, 1/4" x 4", Pkg./10
  • 4 Sterile Cotton Tip Applicators
  • 1 roll of Porous Adhesive tape, 2" width
  • Wound Antiseptic (Betadine) - 2 to 4 ounces

Entertainment

  • 1 deck of cards (micro or Freedom of the hills)
  • Scrabble and Chess boards on therm-a-rests

Repair Kits

  • Voile straps - Length & Quantity TBD
  • 1 medium roll of duct tape
  • 1 large multitool
  • 1 mini screwdriver bit holder
    • 2 #3 Pozidriv bits
    • 1 large flathead bit
    • 1 small flathead bit
    • 1 regular Philips bit
    • 1 Torx T10 mini star drive bit (for Dynafit heel top plate)
  • 6' of bailing wire
  • 1 ski sled kit
  • 10' of 2mm accessory cord
  • 1 lighter
  • 1 file (sharping crampons)
  • 1 p-tex stick
  • 2 silver/black sharpies
  • 3' of elastic cord
  • 1 small voltmeter (for solar charger)
  • 1 CR2032 battery (for wristwatch)

Ski repairs

Voile Switchback bindings
  • 1 Voile Switchback cartridge/wire/heel-piece (Matwyuk)
  • 2 Voile Switchback binding screws
Dynafit bindings
  • 1 complete Dynafit Vertical ST spare binding
  • 1 Dynafit Vertical ST Volcano (plastic heel riser)
  • 1 rubber tube for Dynafit pulks (Scarpa F3 boots)
  • 2 Dynafit binding screws
  • 1 tube of 5 min epoxy
  • 2 popsicle sticks (mixing epoxy)
Ski poles
  • 1 BD spare ski pole
  • 1 BD spare ski basket
  • 2 2" ski pole size hose clamps
  • 1 6" ski pole section (hacksawed)
Skins
  • 1 G3 Tail
  • 1 BD Tail
  • 2 BD Loops (sizes?)
  • 1 BD Skin Globstopper (candle?)
  • 1 speedy stitcher
Boots
  • 2 6" hose clamps
  • 4 walk mode switches
    • 1 for Scarpa F3
    • 1 for ??
    • 1 for ??
    • 1 for ??
  • 2 washer/nut/bolt combo - TBD (for blown ankle rivets)

Clothing repairs

Tent repairs

  • 2 spare tent pole segment (1 for each tent)
  • 1 tube (60 ml, 0.5 oz) of Seam Grip Seam Sure Seam Sealer
  • 2 tent pole sleeves (1 for each tent)

Sleeping repairs

  • 6 sticky patches
  • 8 non-sticky patches
  • 1 textile glue
  • 2 Therm-A-Rest Hot Bond Adhesive
  • 1 Therm-A-Rest Repair Kit Instructions
  • 1 spare Therm-A-Rest valve

Cooking repairs

  • 1 MSR WhisperLite Expedition Service kit
  • 1 MSR XGK EX Expedition Service kit
  • 1 MSR Stove Annual Maintenance kit
  • 2 extra bottle caps
  • 1 MSR fuel pump

or

  • 2 extra bottle caps
  • 2 stove tool
  • 4 control valve O-rings
  • 5 fuel tube O-rings
  • 3 fuel bottle O-rings
  • 2 pump seal
  • 2 fuel jets (?)
  • 1 check valve
  • 1 flame spreader
  • 1 dip tube
  • 1 pump cup oil
  • 2 safety pins
  • 1 shaker jet
  • 1 fuel tube bushing
  • 1 pump cup
  • 1 jet cleaning wire
  • 2 Instruction sheets
    • 1 MSR Whisperlite
    • 1 MSR XGK

Backpack repairs

  • 2 waist belt buckles
  • 1 small buckle
  • 1 dee clip strap
  • 2 draw strip clamps
  • 20' of shoe lace (or 3mm accessory cord)

Grants/fund raisers

  • Any ideas?

Fund raisers

  • Any ideas?