Document type : vocene
Date : 2006-10-25
Description : VOCene #12
Content :
VOCene #12 - Oct 25, 2006

In this VOCene:

I. Letter from the Editor
II. Slide Shows
III. Work Hikes
IV. Upcoming Trips
	1) Skaha
	2) Smith Rocks
V. Trip Reports
    1) Leavenworth
    2) Orienteering School
    3) Gear Swap

I. Letter From the Editor

High in the mountains, a wise man once posed a question, "if you are driving 5 nasty guys to the mountains, and a beautiful young lady asks for a spot, what do you do?". It was promptly decided that at least one spot had to be cleared for the young lady. Clearly, the remaining 3 nasty guys would support your decision. However, could you go so far as to kick out all of the guys? How do you choose the sucker who gets left behind? Why, on so many of the trips I have been on, has there been the "token girl"? Could it be that the "token girl" was a direct result of swapping one nasty guy for one pretty young lady: following a set of rules - no expressed in words - but understood by all guys? 

Why might this question come up? I was pondering other philosophical aspects of power, corruption, and having access to a car while being a member in the VOC. What happens if I was driving a car on a VOC organized trip, and the weather forecast was absolutely terrible at our chosen destination? If my car showed up at a much drier climbing destination, do I have to tell the people in my car? Can I switch destinations and just tell them they can have a seat if they still want it? If no one in the car actually knew where we were going, and had never been to either destination, would they know the difference?

I think the real point of this is that passengers and drivers must talk to each other. Drivers should probably tell their car where they are going and get input, passengers should make the effort and contact the driver if they in fact want a spot. No one wants to get stiffed with a higher gas bill, or stuck on a waiting list with empty seats available. On the other hand, passengers don't want to end up in Regina without being asked first or dumped last minute to find a ride they thought they had.

II. Slide Shows

When: Oct 25, @ 7pm 
Where: Clubroom

Tonight will be 'Vertical Limit' movie night. Have you ever seen 'Vertical Limit' with a bunch of climbers? It is a lot of fun, even for those who don't have much of a background in climbing. My favorite part was the backwards dyno gear placement, without a rope or belay, just after the avalanche.

Boris will be presenting next week. His presentation had to be delayed due to personal reasons. It will be a packed house, so please show up early if you would like to get sitting space.

Check the wiki (
III) Work Hikes

1) Still need that workhike to rent gear?! Evan needs some help Wiki-izing the Journals next week. It would involve just a few hours work typing up journal's table of contents and index. Plus it's fun to read the old journals! Watch the message board next week or contact Evan (

2) Club Room
-Helping the gear master sort gear - especially the new gear that has been recently purchased.
-Ski tuning

3) Route Cleaning

Tyler Lynn started developing a crag in Hope. There is still work to be done in finishing this project. Kristin is looking into making this into a work hike ( The probably date will be 4-5 of November.

Jeff wants to clean a 5.7 multi-pitch on the Chief. He is looking into what is required. The climb is 400m and is called "Crap Climb" (the name is a strong suggestion of why it needs to be cleaned). It would be really cool to have a 5.7 climb that went from the bottom to the top of the Chief. 

IV) Upcoming Trips

1) Skaha

When: Oct 27-29
Where: Penticton
Contact: Mike Fuller (

Interesting points about this trip are:

-There is a splunking (caving) option if the weather is foul.
-Costumes are strongly encouraged (if it rains, I recommend being a fisherman)
-There are lots of apples
-There will be a rock 2.5 (a coarse designed to help people learn to sport climb). Rock 2.5 will be the most useful coarse you can take if you want to climb outdoors with other VOCers. Rock two works, but you will climb a lot more if you have rock 2.5. Please sign-up on the Wiki if you would like to instruct or attend.

2) Smith Rocks

When: Nov 10-13
Where: Oregon somewhere
Contact: Kaja (

This trip has many people going. I can't believe that there are so many climbers in the VOC willing to make the drive. There will be a pre-trip meeting so that everyone will know what they are getting into.

V. Trip Reports

1) Leavenworth

Leavenworth was an amazing trip. The weather was stunning, the climbing was great, and the people were fun too. The trip was small (compared to Skaha and Smith Rocks), but reasonably well equipped. The group completed a number of climbs. I highly recommend "Classic Crack", "El Caliente" and "Poison Ivy". 

A slightly biased, overall summery of the Leavenworth trip follows:

-The girls chasing a giant sausage down the hill, and taking most of the hill to catch it.
-The border guard asked me "climbing, where did you go and what gear did you use?". She will never, ever ask that question again although the Canadian border patrol now knows every piece of gear in my rack, what walls I climbed and what gear I fell on.
-We had 5 trad falls, one failed piece (a zero Metolius is really just an expensive nut), zero injuries, and only 5 active trad leaders in the group. All but one leader fell on the weekend, and one (I'm not saying who) had two. I am truly amazed nothing bad happened.
-Trying to get rid of fruit to other cars in the border line-up.
-Excellent weather and cold, cuddly nights.
-3 bottles of yellow tail for $10.
-An almost epic on Outer Space, but they knew when to bail.
-A 5.8 that half the group couldn't make it off the ground (Classic Crack). The crux is a slightly overhanging, perfectly vertical hand crack. Beautiful climb, just didn't feel like a 5.8.

It was fun, wish you could have come.

2) Orienteering School

Special thanks to all of those who took a special concern in not getting lost. We could have used a little of that this weekend at Leavenworth. A number of people were no shows (>50%). Please do not sign-up and not show up, it is just rude.

3) MEC - Gear Swap

It was a success. A number of high quality plastic tele boots and snow shoes were purchased at basement bargain prices.

Quote of the Week: "The mountains will always be there, the trick is to make sure you are too."
Hervey Voge
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UBC Varsity Outdoor Club
Room 29A, Student Union

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