Document type : vocene
Date : 2006-11-15
Description : VOCene #15
Content :
VOCene #15 - Nov 15, 2006

In this VOCene:

I. Letter from the Editor
II. Slide Shows
III. Work Hikes
IV. Upcoming Trips
     1) Party
     2) Jared Stanley Memorial Mountain Safety Lecture  
     3) CAA Avalanche Workshop 2006
     4) CAA Avalanche Coarse
     5) Winter Social
     6) Cliffhanger
V. Trip Reports
     1) Smith Rocks

I. Letter From the Editor

     It is obvious that many climbs are named by men. We have the "Pantie Wall" in Red Rocks, "Rim Job" and "Hand Job" in Smith Rocks, and "Fat Camp" in Squamish with climbs like "'Tons' of fun" and "Buffet the Self Esteem Slayer". Now, I think sex and fat jokes are just as funny as the next guy, and women are just as capable of being vulgar, but they tend do it in a different way. Where are climbs like "Single Surgeon", "Size Matters", "Make Jam not War", or "Stem up your Sex Life"? I firmly believe more women should be completing first ascents. I see many great climbing chicks in the gym and outside, and first ascents don't necessarily have to be difficult. I think guide books would have another dimension if women were naming more climbs.  

II. Slide Shows

When: Nov 15, @ 7pm 
Where: Clubroom

Boris will be presenting part two of his presentation in the club room - Wrangling in the Yukon. 

Check the wiki ( for more information.
III) Work Hikes

1) Still need that workhike to rent gear? Evan needs some help Wiki-izing the Journals. It would involve just a few hours work typing up 2 journal's table of contents and index. Plus it's fun to read the old journals! Contact Evan (

2) Route Cleaning

Jeff wants to clean a 5.7 multi-pitch on the Chief. He has looked into what is required and is now starting the project. The climb is 400m and is called "Crap Crags". It would be really cool to have a 5.7/5.8 climb that went from the bottom to the top of the Chief, especially if it had a few stars attached to the name. If you want to help contact Jeff @  or the wiki @ .

IV) Upcoming Trips

1) Party - West Side Christmas Bash

When: Nov 17 @ 8:30
Where: VOC house - 4527 15th ave W @ Sasamat

The house put in a lot of effort to make some posters advertising this party. I didn't know how to attach them to a VOCene, so I didn't, but please trust me, the posters were good.

2) Jared Stanley Memorial Mountain Safety Lecture  
When: Monday Nov 27 @ 6pm
Where: Geography 100

Jared Stanley was a member of the UBC Avalanche Research Group which spans the departments of Civil Engineering and Geography. Jared passed away while back country skiing at Mount Seymour in January of 2005.  This lecture is aimed at
disseminating the latest in avalanche research, risk management and decision making for back country enthusiasts of all abilities.

3) CAA Avalanche Workshop 2006

When: Nov 25
Where: Whistler Secondary School, 8000 Alpine Way Whistler

Sandra's says that it is one of the most useful avi workshops that she has taken. I would believe her. This is not a substitute for the coarse (next post). It is a useful refresher before the season starts for those who have already taken the coarse or are planning on taking the coarse. 

4)CAA Avalanche Coarse

When: Nov 30 (evening) & Dec 2,3
Where: Class room and the mountains (North Shore or Whistler)

The course is being provided by Chris Borstad (currently doing a PhD on avalanches) through the Canada West Mountain School. There will be space in this course for 16 students. If more than 16 students would like to take the course then we might be able to arrange for one more instructor, bringing the total up to 24 spaces. However, if we cannot get another instructor, or if there is a lot of demand, then the VOC will organize another course in January or February 2007. This wiki page will be updated as details for this course become available -- if you have questions that cannot be answered here then contact Sandra Nicol (sandra DOT nicol AT telus DOT net).

5) Winter Social

When: December 1st (Friday)
Where: Sub party room

There will be a speaker, probably free food (not confirmed), music and a SAGM (semi-annual general meeting).

6) Cliffhanger

When: Tuesday and Thursday @ ~6pm
Where: Cliffhanger (google it)

A bunch of VOCers go pull on plastic at cliffhanger. We play fun games like "Tag, foot holds are out", and "spin the hold". We also just climb for fun too. All levels show up, VOCers climb the easiest to the hardest routes in the gym. 

V. Trip Reports

1) Smith Rocks

The weather was far better than expected. 

Most headed down Friday afternoon. The drive took stupidly long (~12-13 hours) because of long waits at the border, picking people up and snow/slush in Mount Hood pass. Many arrived at the same time at Skull Hollow camp ground at 4am. After a restful sleep of ~3 hours, we were up to the sound of a mandolin and ready for a day of climbing. Weather was brilliant although a tad cold. Dark came too early and we all headed back to the camp site for a fire made from pallets stolen out of a dumpster, fire spitting (it really was spitting, breathing was far too glamorous a description), drinking and talking.

Next day we were up early to climb, but it was really cold, so we went for hot chocolate and a Mexican breakfast instead. The Mexican breakfast was a little too authentic, vomiting and all. We did climb after buying a large quantity of hand warmers at the local shop which turned out to work too well. One had the choice of burning or frozen fingers. It rained in the afternoon, but that was okay because the camp was already set-up. Christian had an epic on the Monkey Face bolt ladder. You will have to ask him the story. A heavy pack, an overhanging and sideways bolt ladders make a hard situation to learn to aid on.

The weather on Monday was reasonable. We were up early, and had everything packed in record time. Not exactly an alpine start, but as close as a large group was going to get. My group climbed until 1, where Arlin had set-up a rope swing. We all had to try some of this hooting and hollering. The swing capped off a weekend that had an amazing amount of climbing for the complete lack of sleep and bad forecast. The drive home only took 9.5 hours including duty free stops and dropping everyone off.

It was a great weekend. Yes, there was rain, snow, high winds and cold, but it really didn't hinder three great days of climbing.
Quote of the Week:  "Yoga is a system, scientifically proven to boost your climbing ability significantly. Why do you think you always see that Guru figure sitting on the top of the mountain? You think she got there by enlightenment ?"     Lg.
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