Document type : vocene
Date : 2006-11-22
Description : VOCene #16
Content :
VOCene #16 - Nov 15, 2006

In this VOCene:

I. Letter from the Editor
II. News
III. Slide Shows
IV. Work Hikes
V. Upcoming Trips
     1) Brew Hut
	 2) Parks Canada Speakers Series
     3) Jared Stanley Memorial Mountain Safety Lecture  
     4) CAA Avalanche Workshop 2006
     5) CAA Avalanche Coarse
     6) Winter Social
     7) Cliffhanger
VI. Trip Reports
     1) Crap Crags Cleaning
	 2) Party

I. Letter From the Editor

It is easy to sound like a 'pro' climber, all you have to do is talk like one. Luckily, for those of us who are full of hot air, the climbing season is over so  nobody can can call our bluff until spring. 

Climbers, like most specialized athletes, use a long list of climbing specific jargon. Only climbers will actually know what these simple, misused words actually mean in their bastardized form. Thus, you should be able to impress the novice climber by liberally sprinkling in a few choice words into you conversation. 

Some example words
12's & 13's
mono pocket
fingernail crimp

Examples of using these words to sound like a 'hard' climber
I 'send' '12's' and '13's' because I have 'nuts'
I put 'free' 'jam' in my 'mono pocket' because I'm a climbing bum
I 'clean' my 'fingernail crimps' with my 'pro'
I'm a 'leader' of the 'clean' movement
Use the good holds

As you can tell, simply placing a few of these words into your daily conversations will undoubtedly make you sound like a 'hard' climber and impress all of your novice climbing friends. If you so choose to follow this strategy, please read ASCA warning (included as quote).

II. News

1) Your executive has been hard at work. BCMC and the VOC have agreed to share huts. All VOC members now get free access to BCMC huts, with proof of membership to the VOC, but we still have to pick up the keys like everyone else. 

2) The Campbell government of British Columbia amended the BC Parks Act to allow commercial development in our provincial parks. In July of 2006 the British Columbia government revealed they were moving ahead with privately funded accommodations, including lodges and resorts, into provincial parks. This is a very dear issue to the VOC. Go to for more information. 

III. Slide Shows

When: Nov 22, @ 7pm 
Where: Clubroom

An eight day ski traverse in the Coast Mountains, April 2006. Presented by Richard So 

When: Nov 29, @ 7pm 
Where: Clubroom

3 days backpacking in the Queen Charlotte Islands.
Presented by Maria & Christine. Media: digital & a few good old-fashioned slides.

Check the wiki ( for more information.
IV) Work Hikes

1) Still need that workhike to rent gear? Evan needs some help Wiki-izing the Journals. It would involve just a few hours work typing up 2 journal's table of contents and index. Plus it's fun to read the old journals! Contact Evan (

2) Jeff wants to clean a 5.7 multi-pitch on the Chief. If you want to help contact Jeff @  or the wiki @ .

V) Upcoming Trips

1) Brew Hut	
When: Nov 25-26
Where: Brew Hut

A trip up to the Brew Hut, a beginner friendly Sat-Sun overnighter. Ideally, you should have some outdoor experience, zero skiing experience and enthusiasm. There will be a trip meeting at 6:00pm on Thursday, Nov 21, in the clubroom.

2) Parks Canada Speakers Series! Stanley Park National Historic Site: Vancouverís Best-Kept Secret

When: Monday, December 4 @  7:30pm
Where: Alice MacKay Room at the Central Library, 350 W. Georgia Street, Vancouver

Discover some of the outstanding but little-known historical features of Vancouverís Stanley Park with Lyle Dick, West Coast Historian for Parks Canada and author of the Innis Prize winning book Muskox Land. Admission is free and all are welcome.

3) Jared Stanley Memorial Mountain Safety Lecture  
When: Monday Nov 27 @ 6pm
Where: Geography 100

Jared Stanley was a member of the UBC Avalanche Research Group which spans the departments of Civil Engineering and Geography. Jared passed away while back country skiing at Mount Seymour in January of 2005.  This lecture is aimed at
disseminating the latest in avalanche research, risk management and decision making for back country enthusiasts of all abilities.

4) CAA Avalanche Workshop 2006

When: Nov 25
Where: Whistler Secondary School, 8000 Alpine Way Whistler

Sandra's says that it is one of the most useful avi workshops that she has taken. I would believe her. This is not a substitute for the coarse (next post). It is a useful refresher before the season starts for those who have already taken the coarse or are planning on taking the coarse. 

5)CAA Avalanche Coarse

When: Nov 30 (evening) & Dec 2,3
Where: Class room and the mountains (North Shore or Whistler)

If you want to take this course, you must respond by Friday. If we do not get enough people, it will be rescheduled -- contact Sandra Nicol (sandra DOT nicol AT telus DOT net) asap.

6) Winter Social

When: Friday, Dec. 1st. 6pm. Last day of classes, how better to relax before exams?
Where: SUB ballroom

Will be an awesome time, and we need a quorum to make any decisions, so come on out! Pizza and slide show. FREE if you show up by 6. $4 if you're late - yes, that's right, no VOC time.

a) AGM. Discussion on Future Club Spending, Budget, Huts and Trail insurance, New Clubroom Computer, Exec Elections for any open positions (Kristin leaving, and possibly Evan?). 
b) FREE PIZZA  (to bribe people to show up for the SAGM).
c) Slide show. Most likely by Nick Elson on his and Stefans Cassin Ridge trip in Alaska. Hardcore.
d) Desert potluck. Bring deserts.
e) Wandering about talking over the loud music that no one is dancing to. Bring iPods, else you have to suffer to my music. 

7) Cliffhanger

When: Tuesday and Thursday @ ~6pm
Where: Cliffhanger Vancouver 

Need to stay in shape/get in shape for the next climbing session? Come out to cliffhanger where you will be able to find a belay. Numbers have dwindled in the last few weeks, but there are still a few of us who will show up regardless.

VI. Trip Reports

1) Crap Crag's Cleaning

Men who closely resemble vikings are rappelling of the Chief with chains saws buzzing! This may sound like the premise for a bad horror flick, but unlike snakes on a plane, this is actually true. They cleaned 2.5 pitches, showered trees on the world below, and apparently cleaned up to a meter of dirt out of some cracks. Still lots to do, but they are making excellent progress. 

2) Party - West Side Christmas Bash

It was a crazy party, but what happens at the West Side House stays at the West Side House. 

Quote of the Week:  "We do not add bolts to make climbs "safer". Climbing is inherently extremely dangerous."
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UBC Varsity Outdoor Club
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