Document type : vocene
Date : 2004-09-21
Description :
Content :
VOCene #8 - September 22, 2004
Back-To-School Mania is winding down and now the Term 1 (a.k.a. The
Paper/Midterm/Assignment/Project) Grind begins! But fear not, the VOC
offers some escape....

We have a new VOC President, Matt Brown. Matt has a wealth of outdoor
experience climbing, hiking, skiing and cycling. All hail El Nuevo
Presidente and his glorious new regime!

Now down to business.

    - Longhike 2004
    - gear returns
    - membership renewals
    - Wednesday slideshows
    - Garibaldi Lake, Sept.18-19
    - Wedgemount Lake, Sept.18-20
    - Stawamus Chief Gondola Proposal
    - Alpine Club of Canada Leadership course


The annual Longhike (aka Rock Climbing School) takes place this
weekend, September 25-26. Climbing will be during the day in and
around Squamish, followed by the obligatory apres-climb party in the
evening at the Coast Mountain Outdoor centre near Pemberton. There
will be 3 levels of instruction:

Rock 1 - Beginner
 - an intro to climbing if you're a novice and never climbed before
Rock 2 - Intermediate
 - you know the basics, and want to learn anchor building
and more advanced climbing skills
Rock 3 - Advanced
- you're a solid climber, with extensive seconding experience,
and want to learn lead climbing

NOTE: If you can instruct at Longhike, please email
ASAP saying what level you can teach. (Word has it that there are
perks to being an instructorů.)

Tickets for this event are $30 and are on sale until Wednesday
(selling fast!). A MANDATORY Dryschool meeting will be held on
Wednesday Sept 22 at 6:30 PM in Woodward Lecture Hall 1 (near Woodward
The meeting will address the following and more:
-more info on the different Rock levels above
-organizing you into each Rock level
-arrange carpool sign-ups for the car-less
-distributing club gear (harnesses, shoes, etc)
-where to meet Saturday morning (8AM at Murrin Park parking lot, which
is the small park by the lake on the left side of Highway 99, just
before Squamish)
-how to get to the apres-climb party at Pemberton
-any other questions you have


Ok by now you're tired of hearing it and we're tired of saying it. We
are still missing two climbing ropes from Glacier School a couple
weeks ago. BRING THEM BACK. We need these for Longhike this weekend.
So do the right thing and get your rental deposit back.


Your 2003-04 membership expires at the end of September. This
means no more VOCene, no more access to the message board, no more
gear rentals - you will basically be excommunicated from the outdoors
scene. To avoid this untenable situation, swing by the VOC booth
during Clubs Days this week or drop down to our fairly spiffy new
Clubroom in the SUB's basement during lunchtime to renew your
membership. You'll be glad you did.


Gone on a killer trip and want to play show and tell? Please
contact Sarah , if you'd like to give a slideshow.
Slideshows happen on Wednesday nights at 7pm on the *new* screen in
the VOC clubroom, followed by alcoholic libations at The Gallery.

On a related note, a slideshow about climbing Shjingu Charpa's North
Ridge in Pakistan is showing later this month - see the attached jpeg
for details.

Garibaldi Lake overnight trip - Sept 18-19
By Roland Burton

So we got two carloads for Garibaldi.  There was the Trooper with
Roland, Carla, and the Rugrats, and there was Mike and the Young
Ladies.  Saturday was moist, with a little rain and the occasional wet
snowflake, as we hauled our overnight packs up to Garibaldi Lake. 
Saturday night it froze and Sunday we had blue sky and fresh snow on
the peaks.  We set off to climb Price, the volcano just south of the
lake, but what with an excess of photography, ice on the rocks, and
six inches of snow near the top, we only had time to get up one of the
three summits (not the highest).  But the pictures turned out well. 
Note to the Young Ladies from Ontario, one sleeping bag for two is a
little skimpy, and you should try and get some sleeping mats, and some
fleece clothes (second hand is ok), and next trip you should bring
some food instead of canned soup, raw potatoes and vegetarian wieners.
 We did have a good time, apparently.

Wedgemount Lake - Sept 18-20
By Janez Ales

Natasha, Marion, Matthieu, and I ended up in the magic snowy country
on Saturday afternoon. M&M were asleep all day, since they were
playing cards all night...

The hut was full with four dudes who were nice enough that they
dissapeared and set up their tents, while we took over the cabin
(note: we did not bother with tents, because one can always squeeze 4
more into the hut...)

Sunday was a great experience, especially for Natasha, for whom this
was the first time on the frozen river. We went as far as we dared to
and then I chickened out, due to a nice easy to moderate shear 25 cm
down on a perfect slope, up to 2 feet of snow on the flat section of
the ridge, a lot of surface hoar -> no wind, meaning that the ridge
ahead had plenty of snow to take us down...
Even so it was a good day and we will be back when the routes are frozen.

Dinner (I am biased, because I was the cook) and wine (Gato Negro!!!)
were excellent...

We were enjoying our Wedgemount Chalet so much we actually stayed
there on Sunday night also.

On the way down Natasha posted world's fastest time, next time she
gets more group gear  :) 

The gourment eating continued on the way through Squamish, where we
were feasting on chiken shnitzels deluxe... and we got Nanaimo bars on
the house!



Did you know that there are plans for building a gondola up the Chief
in? Read the following snippet from the CLIMBERS' ACCESS SOCIETY OF
B.C. and voice your opinion on this controversial issue!

Stawamus Chief Gondola Proposal
A proposal has been made to build a tourist gondola and associated
facilities on the Stawamus Chief. The gondola would start at the
gravel pit between the Chief and Shannon Falls, and end in an enclosed
area on the second summit. The gondola is contrary to the 1997 master
plan for Stawamus Chief Provincial Park, although the plan can be
over-ridden if there is sufficient public or political support.
This issue has been extensively covered in the media. National and
international climbers' organizations have become involved. Squamish
climbing legends Ed Cooper and Fred Beckey, and many others, have
written to oppose it. A lot has happened, and the Access Society and
others have been working hard, but it will take much time and effort
before this is resolved. Contact squamish(at) for
copies of earlier broadcast e-mails about the gondola.
The Access Society's position is that a tourist gondola may be
appropriate somewhere in the Squamish area, after proper planning and
public debate. Stawamus Chief Provincial Park is not an appropriate
location for any gondola. Our concerns include visual impacts,
conflicts with the many existing users (climbers, hikers, viewers),
symbolism, impact on Squamish's image in the international climbing
community, and the precedent for development in other parks.
The Access Society encourages all with an interest in the proposed gondola to:
1.	Learn more about it. 
2.	Write to the provincial government to express your views, as soon
as possible.
3.	Attend the meeting of Squamish Council on September 28th, where the
proponents will present their plans.
4.	Participate in other ways in the debate.
Please write to:
Bill Barisoff, Minister of Water, Land and Air Protection 
P.O. Box 9047, St'n. Prov. Gov't.
Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8W 9E2
(250) 387-1187, or
Gordon Campbell, Premier
P.O. Box 9041, St'n. Prov. Gov't.
Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8W 9E1
Phone (250) 387-1715, or
Ian Sutherland, Mayor
District of Squamish
P.O. Box 310
Squamish, B.C.
Canada V0N 3G0
Phone 1-877-892-5217, or
Letters should be to Mr. Barisoff, with copies to the premier, the
mayor of Squamish, and the Access Society
(squamish(at) A written letter counts for much more
than an e-mail, and an e-mail for much more than a phone call. Be
polite, constructive, and clear. You can also write letters to the
Vancouver Sun
Squamish Chief 
Vancouver Province
The gondola proponents must first consult with "key stakeholders" -
the District of Squamish, the Squamish First Nation, the Ministry of
Transportation, and the Vancouver Olympics Organizing Committee. (The
climbing/hiking community is not considered a key stakeholder, but the
Olympic committee is, although the gondola seems to have little to do
with the Olympics.) If these consultations indicate that an amendment
to the park plan should be considered, broad consultation with the
community will follow. Those consultations would have to be "open and
transparent". The government says "If those consultations demonstrate
broad community support for a continuation of the park's management
plan to restrict mechanized access on the Chief, then we would reflect
those wishes".
The proponents will present their plans to Squamish Council on Tuesday
September 28th. The meeting is usually at 7:00 PM at council chambers
at the municipal hall at 37955 - 2nd Avenue, in downtown Squamish
(, or (604) 892-5217), and is open to the public. The
meeting may be moved to a larger location, TBA. There may be an
opportunity for those attending the meeting to make presentations. The
Access Society urges everyone interested to be there. (Please car
pool, and be on time - it is a business meeting.) If you plan to
attend, please let us and the District know. We hope to publicize the
meeting location, and whether the public will be able to speak,
beforehand. It is possible that Council will simply vote against the
gondola proposal on the 28 th, but that wouldn't necessarily mean the
end of it.
The Friends of the Chief website will soon be operational, at It will include information about the
proposal and its impacts, FAQs and myths about the proposal, responses
to the claims on the proponent's website, and information about how to
get involved.
The proponent's website is at Many of
the claims on it are debatable. The website includes an on-line
feedback form. Its format seems less than neutral, but it may be worth
filling it out anyway. Please print the form, complete it, and mail it
Stawamus Chief Management Plan Process
Ministry of Water, Land and Air Protection
Lower Mainland Region
10470 - 152nd Street
Surrey, B.C.
Canada  V3R 0Y3
This takes a bit more effort, but may be more secure, and ensures that
the form is received by a neutral party. It also allows you to fill in
the feedback form as you wish - feel free to add comments, questions
and criticisms. Keep a copy of your form, and send one to the Access
Society. If you do send the feedback form electronically, we suggest
that you save it, and send a copy to the Access Society by mail or to
There may be other ways to participate in the gondola debate,
including open houses and forums, later this autumn. We'll provide
updates as and when we can, on the website and by e-mail. The Access
Society's letter to the government about the gondola will be on the
updated website.
Feedback Form Privacy Issue
The feedback form includes an inconspicuous but important sub-form, a
link from "read our privacy statement". It isn't on the form itself,
but says:
"All feedback submitted becomes the property of Stawamus Chief Gondola
Ltd. and the Government of British Columbia (Ministry of Water, Land &
Air Protection). By submitting feedback, you are granting your
permission to use your feedback from the website in any manner. By
submitting your feedback, you are also granting Stawamus Chief Gondola
Ltd. the right to use any information that you supply for demographic
purposes. However, your contact information is kept strictly
confidential and it won't be sold, rented or used by anyone other than
Stawamus Chief Gondola Ltd. & the Government of British Columbia
(Ministry of Water, Land & Air Protection). By choosing to be informed
about updates you are granting Stawamus Chief Gondola Ltd. permission
to email you in this manner and/or to notify you of possible problems
with your entry or other contact that Stawamus Chief Gondola Ltd.
deems necessary at our discretion."
Your personal information can only be used in ways you consent to. If
you submit the feedback form electronically, you are taken to have
consented to the privacy statement. There's no way to modify it, or
the feedback form. If you don't agree with any part of the privacy
statement, or don't want to be bound by the design of the form, print
them both out, complete the form, and mail them in together. Cross out
and initial the parts of the privacy statement you don't consent to.

Interested in developing leadership qualities? The Alpine Club of
Canada (ACC) offers a weekend course on outdoor leadership and

Oct. 23-24, 2004

If you are interested in developing your leadership
skills, whether as a trip leader or participant, this
will be a great workshop weekend for you.

Highlights include: a leadership assessment tool where
you will learn more about your leadership style and
identify areas that can be improved; role-playing to
practice decision making and communication in tough
situations while on a hike; and an opportunity to meet
other club members, learn, and have fun--all at the
same time!

Cost:  for ACC members:  $25.00; for non-ACC members:
$30.00; for Varsity Outdoor Club members: $20.

Pre-registration and pre-payment are required.  To
register, contact Zoran Vasic at 604-438-9066; email:, before Monday, Oct. 18.

If you call, please leave your email address with
Zoran, as we will be contacting you ahead of the
weekend by email with materials for the workshop.

The workshop will be held at a learning facility in
the North Shore mountains; you can find out more when
you register.  Space is limited, so sign up early!

UBC Varsity Outdoor Club
Room 29A, Student Union Building

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