Document type : vocene
Date : 2005-09-26
Description : VOCene #3 -2005/2006 Sept. 26, 2005
Content :
VOCene #3 2005/2006-September 26, 2005
In this VOCene:

Welcome to VOCene number 3. School’s in full swing now, but not to worry, weekly socials (a.k.a pub night) is starting this Wednesday, and long hike is only 12 sleeps away. In this installment you will find trip reports from last weeks Glacier Camp, the Brew Hut Work hike, stories from Mount Grant, and the word on upcoming trips. Take a break from those books and come join us!


1. Slideshow Sept 28, 2005
2. Long hike Dry School
3. Needle Peak
4. Long Hike
5. Kayak Trip is on the Horizon


1. Club Day Thanks.
2. Clubroom coming together.
3. Digital projector
4. “Scrambles in Southwestern B.C.” by Matt Gunn, guidebook to be made
   available to VOC members at special price.


1. Glacier Camp by Richard So
2. Brew Hut by Sandra Nicol
3. Mount Grant by Tyler Linn


1. MEC Gear Swap


   	When: Wed. Sept 28, 2005(check message board for updates)
   	Where: VOC Clubroom and the “Lounge” (upstairs in SUB)
   	What: Slide Show: 
Here is a slide show that all you new to the area won't want to miss :) about rock and ice climbing, paddling, and mountaineering in BC and Alberta.

"Mountain, water, and ice (cream :) treats from Alberta & British Columbia"
  	Who: Janez Ales

All participants in the long hike are required to attend the Dry school.

	When: Wed. October 5th, 2005
	Where: Location TBA check message board
	Time: check message board for updates (early evening)


	When: October 1st and 2nd
	Where: see above
	What: a scramble/hike.
Who: Tyler Linn is organizing the trip, check the message board for new developments, as of Monday night its here:

So...let's have the trip meeting on Thursday in the clubroom at 12:30pm to sort out rides for Saturday. If you can’t make it for whatever reason I will post the phone numbers of the drivers and you will have to try and ask them nicely for a space in their vehicles. We will be leaving Vancouver at 7am Saturday morning and meeting again for breakfast in Hope. If you want to come it’s up to you to talk with the driver.

Hope to see everyone Thursday.


Club Days saw the club sell lots of tickets for the Long hike (60 plus), there are still some tickets left but they are going fast. Come down to the clubroom during the lunch hours to get your tickets. (Remember you must be a VOC member first before you can purchase your Long hike tickets. Each costs 30.00)
Hey guys (and girls), 
It's almost time again for the biggest climbing trip of the year...Long hike! 

When: October 8th-9th 

Where and What: Climbing in Squamish, followed by a huge aprˇčs climbing party and sleepover at the Coast Mountain Outdoor School in Pemberton.

Cost: $30 includes climbing instruction, gear rental (plus a refundable damage deposit), accommodation for the night, and all the food you can eat the night of the party and breakfast the next morning, as well as a dessert potluck!

All ability levels are welcome and no climbing experience is necessary. There will be 3 different climbing groups:

Rock 1: for people will little or no climbing experience, and who want to learn how to get off the ground safely. Topics covered include tying in, buddy checks and belaying. 
Rock 2: for people with some climbing experience who want to learn how to build anchors and set up top ropes. Topics covered include anchor building and rappelling
Rock 3: for people with extensive seconding experience who want to learn how to lead climb. Topics covered include belaying a leader, gear placement and rope management

Tickets are now available and can be purchased at our clubs day’s booth (outside the SUB) this week from 12-4pm and in the clubroom between 11ish-3ish. 

There will be a mandatory dry school a few days before the trip (date to be announced) in order to plan out rides and other details. I am also looking for instructors and people to help out with the cooking so if you are interested in either let me know. I will post a thing about it on the wiki soon so that people can sign up.

So everyone come buy your tickets soon because space fills up fast! The weekend will be great! We usually get around 100 people at this event, so it's a great way to meet the existing and new members, party, and get some rock-climbing in. We have lots of great plans for this year's trip so it will be tones of fun!

5. Kayak Trip

   When: coming up after long hike
   Where: check the message board for updates


1. Club Days Thanks. 
Cheers to all those who came out to volunteer their time in the sun; Club Days, I can still smell the burgers, hear the tunes, and visualize the girls rugby team.

2. The clubroom continues to come together as a result of the addition of a new “interior design” exec member and the generous donations from club members. Thanks to Sandra N. and Scott N. for the TV and DVD player. Come on down for lunch and bring a “vid”.

3. The digital projector is in the works; it’s only a matter of time now. Get those slide shows ready. Check the WIKI for times and shows.

4. The VOC will have a limited number of Matt Gunn’s “Scrambles in Southwestern B.C.” guidebook available for purchase by VOC members for the special price of $25.00. Arriving soon, check the message board for updates.



Approximately thirty-five VOC’ers went to Easton Glacier, on the south side 
of Mount Baker, for Glacier School. The border crossing went for ok for most. The 
group was divided into the G2 students, the G1, and the ice climbers. The views weren't spectacular on Saturday afternoon, due to clouds. The whiteout conditions made glacier travel interesting. Most of the glacier was icy, but Jeremy's group did find snow higher up. Most of the groups had trouble finding good patches of snow to practice self arresting. Later that evening, the clouds lifted, and the full moon came out, exposing the enormous amounts of crevasses on Baker. Due to the condition of the glacier, only three of the nine VOC'ers in the G2 group decided to summit. Jay, Martin, and Bram left camp at 430 and made it up to the top at around 10. The weather was perfect for them. The rest of the G2 students met them on the descent. We found a very large crevasse, which we used to practice crevasse falls and self arrest. Krystil fell about 8m? (On purpose)... and Jeremy filmed this. We went ascended the lower half of the glacier in poor visibility, so on the descent, the large amounts of crevasses were clearly visible. The entire group left the campsite late afternoon, and we descended the lovely trail, which was in excellent condition. There were tons of gigantic blueberries in the meadows, which slowed down the group... or speed up due to the berry power! Ask Chris Petrus. This is definitely a place that I'll be returning to. 
Richard So

2.BREW HUT-Sept 24-25th,2005

Twenty hardy volunteers hiked up to tear down the old Brew Hut and put
some finishing touches on the new hut this weekend, with great success.
The old Brew Hut has been torn down and divided into piles: cut
firewood, wood with nails removed ready to be cut into firewood, wood
without nails removed, and garbage to be flown out. Enough firewood for
this winter has been carried up to the new hut, as well as the pieces
required to build a wood shed (we're using the tops of the arches from
the old hut to make a shed). The rest of the white paint has been
applied to the inside of the new hut, and all of the remaining trim has
been painted a nice bright yellow. The windows have been fixed so that
they will not bang open, and coat hooks have been put up around the
stove. There is still more to do, including putting the furniture in
the new hut back together once the paint is dry, building the woodshed,
putting up the outhouse (this one will wait until next summer), and
putting up the information posters inside the hut. Much fun was had on
Saturday evening, with card games, singing (need to bring more song book sup too!), and a dessert potluck featuring fudge, apple cobbler, brownies, and lots of hot chocolate. Thirteen people slept in the hut and were very warm; the rest slept in tents with varying degrees of warmness. And now a list of the hardy volunteers: Scott Nelson, Sandra Nicol, Rueben Schultz, Philipp Winter, Martin Le-Huu, Scott Webster, Pascal Ziltener, Charles Bogart, Sˇébastien Crouzet, Cory Sine, Oker Chen, Arno Waizenegger, Martin Birse, Leila Larson, Kim Hunnam, Roland
Burton, Kevin Burton, Meredith Seeton, Erik Naslund, and Steve Lerch.
Many thanks to all!’

3. Northeast Face of Mt. Grant (a.k.a. 80`s Dance Party)

Trip participants: Tyler Linn, Nick Elson

	I wake up to my phone ringing in my ear. I don’t know how I got back last night but I have vague images of tight 80`s clothing and lots of Captain Morgan’s. Aaaarrrgh! My head hurts! I head over to pick up Nick at the ungodly hour of 6am. I’m not sure how the traffic cone got into the back of my parent’s van either but it made for an interesting explanation to my parents in Hope. The unclimbed Northeast Face of Mt. Grant was calling our names. The face is unclimbed and looks very spectacular but quite intimidating in my current state. The face is roughly 500 meters high and is protected by two glaciers. We were a bit upset that we didn’t bring our crampons because at this point we weren’t even sure if our line would go due to steep ice and crevasses. 
	Five hours of bush, ridge walking, heather, slide alder, and boulder fields got us to a beautiful tarn below the face. I managed to keep my lunch down and I slipped into my bivy sack after a cup of warm apple cider. We were happy that our bacon carbonara had not attracted any bears after walking on what Nick called the “Bear Superhighway.” I liked to refer to the small trails along the ridge as “Game Trails” but it was hard to ignore the presence of bears in the area due to a lot of fresh shit that I had tried to ignore.  
The next morning we were up at first light and worked our way below the glacier to the bottom of the face. We scrambled to the start of the line between the two glaciers. The first few pitches were pretty trivial with nice exposure down either side of the arˇźte. The crux pitch had a great section of 5.7 vertical face climbing with some great face holds to keep the grade moderate. After eight long pitches and a bit of simul-climbing we found the summit with beautiful views of the North Cascades. The descent was not at all pleasant with lots of sliding and pulling on steep heather while trying not to fall through a thick layer of shrubs and hidden cliffs. An afternoon snooze at our little tarn under the fall sun left us recalling the great times we had had on our route. We had a few laughs and blank stairs in Hope the next day as we cycled down into town with our climbing helmets on and our 80 liter packs. Thanks for a great weekend Nick!  


What: The MEC gear swap (rumor has it there will be a VOC contingent camped out, come one come all)
When: October 2, 2005
Where: MEC Broadway Store
What: Used gear sale, you can take your gear for sale, or find some good deals on others gear, check it out. Check their website for more details:
Quote of the week: "To travel, to experience and learn - that is to live."
- Tenzing Norgay

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UBC Varsity Outdoor Club
Room 29A, Student Union Building

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