VOC trips are organized by members like yourself, not professional guides. The trips go into wilderness areas where assistance is unavailable and unexpected events can occur. You could be seriously injured or die. You are responsible for your own actions. Please use caution.
Bugaboos Climbing · Sat. Jul. 16th - Tue. Jul. 19th
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Start: Saturday, Jul. 16th
End: Tuesday, Jul. 19th
Pre-trip meeting: Saturday, Jul. 9th
Pre-trip meeting location: Zoom
The Bugaboos are Canada's premier alpine playground. With huge granite spires in a remote-feeling alpine setting, the bugs are home to world-class routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.14. Applebee dome (the campsite in the bugs) is a mere 5km/1000m elevation gain from the road, making the bugaboos incredibly accessible, even if you decide to pack in a double rack, hut booties, a thermos, a BBQ, and the kitchen sink for that luxury basecamp experience. This also means that despite the remote alpine feel, some of the classics can get quite busy; prepare to share!
My schedule is open for the entirety of July, and I'm hoping to get out multiple times if possible. If you can go sometime in July other than the 16th-19th, or you'd be keen to get out more than once, please fill out this form: https://forms.gle/jWBgF315UysMo5Bb9
I can also help use this form to connect others with goals that might be different from mine.
My plan is to use this trip as a chance to help coordinate climbing partnerships and sort out ride arrangements. I can help connect people (and am looking for partners myself), but I don't plan on actually leading a conga line of VOCers up easy alpine climbs. If you're looking for a guided bugaboos trip, this isn't it. Think of the trip as less of a formal VOC trip and more of a partner search board.
The bugaboos is not the place to learn how to trad climb. While the area is accessible, the routes are very much still alpine climbs that require a particular skillset. This is not the same as trad climbing in squamish; descents are often rather involved and require routefinding skills, and there's much more loose rock trying to kill you.
- Must be comfortable with leading trad, including building gear anchors and dealing with tricky routefinding/descents on bigger climbs.
- Must have training in crevasse rescue and experience on glaciers (the bugaboos are glaciated. Often, glacier travel in the bugs is done in parties of 2, adding to the importance of having crevasse rescue skills dialed. That said, the glaciers are fairly tame).
- Must be comfortable climbing and downclimbing steep snow on the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col (depending on what routes you're going after).
- Must have previous experience with overnight trips.
All my usual partners are busy being productive members of society this summer, meaning I've needed to expand my partner search.
I've been to the bugs twice, and last time I got shut down by illness on the approach to the North East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire 5.8. Getting up that route is my top priority. Otherwise, I'd be keen to get on:
- McTech Arete 5.10-
- Paddle Flake or Paddle Flake Direct 5.10
- Snowpatch Route 5.8
- Surfs Up 5.9
I'm open to other routes as well; my main goal is to just get out climbing. Feel free to contact me to discuss at [email protected]
I'm based in Calgary for the summer, and can drive if you're also in Alberta. Otherwise we'll need to sort out rides from Vancouver.