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[SLIDESHOW] Alpinism 101: How to epic responsibly · Wednesday, September 25th, 2024
Warning: This is an old trip - it already happened
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Start: Wednesday, Sep. 25th, 6:30 pm
Description:
Location: Clubroom
Length: ~1.5hrs (6:30-8:00pm)
About the slideshow:
Come join me in the clubroom and hear about some of my (mis)adventures in the alpine, and the lessons I’ve learned from them. I’ll talk about how I got into alpine climbing, and discuss how you can (safely) get into alpinism too. If you already have experience in the alpine, this will be a good chance to be entertained while engaging in some discussion of best practices.
Overall, I have four goals with this slideshow:
(i) Share some entertaining stories of epics and sufferfests in the mountains
(ii) Build enthusiasm for alpine climbing and related disciplines in the VOC,
(iii) Explain how one might safely get into alpine climbing as a practice,
(iv) Share some hard-won advice for mitigating risk in alpine environments.
What is alpinism?
Ask 100 climbers for the definition of alpine climbing, and you’ll likely get 100 different answers. My rough explanation of alpine climbing is that it entails:
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Climbing (e.g. trad, mixed, ice, snow)
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In an alpine environment (e.g. above treeline)
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With the intent to summit a mountain (most of the time, anyways)
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Via a route that is chosen primarily for qualities other than mere ease (differentiating it from a certain kind of “mountaineering” or “peak-bagging” mentality, which often seeks to summit via the path of least resistance)
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In alpine style (which involves a set of ethical and aesthetic commitments that govern the tactics with which the climbing is approached)
Of all the various climbing disciplines, few require as many distinct skill sets as alpine climbing. Alpine terrain offers a large number of challenges that you won’t find at the local crag, and often demands a far higher level of commitment. Alpinism is also inherently interdisciplinary; depending on your choice of route, it might require you to have the skills and fitness for backpacking, glacier travel / classic mountaineering, trad climbing, snow climbing, ice climbing, mixed climbing, and skiing. This is one of the reasons why so many outdoor recreationalists find themselves drawn to alpinism; as they acquire more skills in the mountains, it seems logical to combine them in pursuit of awe-inspiring big lines in the mountains. The alpine is where a certain kind of ambitious climber goes to push their boundaries (both physical and mental) and where the adventurously inclined find transcendent experiences that make life feel anything but ordinary.
Alpinism is not for everyone. Many people find their niche in other disciplines, and have no interest in some aspect(s) of alpine climbing. The alpine is dangerous and chaotic, making alpine climbing risky and frustrating. Big mountains require big effort; sometimes, alpine climbing involves slogging heavy packs long distances through brutal terrain, only to turn around when the route isn’t in condition. Suffering, at some point or another, is guaranteed. The gear requirements are atrocious (RIP your wallet). Finding (trustworthy and competent) partners is tricky, and connecting weather windows with your (and your partner’s) availability is a scheduling nightmare.
Other details
Bring drinks/snacks. Questions and heckling are welcome. Invite your friends; no sign up needed.
Posted: 2024-09-11 20:16:41
Last modified: 2024-09-20 19:30:00