Archive:Denali 2011

Team Details

Team VOC Hot Faff

• Geoffrey Martin
• Michael Duncan
• Christian Champagne
• Laura Morrison

To Do List

Mt Denali National Park Registration - Dec.

• Due minimum of 60 days before the climb (April 9^th, 2011)
• Mountaineering Fee: $200/person
• Park Fee: $10
• Deposit Upon Registration: $25
• Online and hard copy forms available, must be completed together.

Info here

Flights - Dec.

• K2 Aviation by January 31^st, 2011 - $460/person ($560 otherwise)
  • $100 group deposit upon reservation.

Vehicle - Dec

• Geoff should be able to borrow his family's Ford Windstar minivan. We can expect it to use about $800 worth of fuel on the trip. Lots of room, ski rack, well maintained, and safe and easy to drive.
• Duncan will meeting the rest of the team in Anchorage, AK after flying in from Quebec City, QC on June 8^th, 2011

Medical Needs - New Year

• Everyone should have a physical done (Completed: Mike, ) (To Do: Geoff, Christian, Laura)
• Need up to date tetanus shot (Completed: Mike) (To Do: Geoff, Christian, Laura)
• Can be referred to the Vancouver High Altitude Medicine Clinic if it's helpful

This consultation is not covered by the BC medical service plan (MSP) unless your physician faxes a referral letter to f-604.822.9058. We just need to contact Mike and his clinic and they will book us in for free (however, if we go through our doctors, Mike actually gets paid).

• Need certain prescription drugs - Mike at the clinic can prescribe
  • Champagne - will email Kristen for her remaining drugs from her 2010 Mt Logan attempt. Mike will e-mail Rick Havlak to get the remainder of his drugs from his Denali summit in 07. (don't know if the drugs will still be good, Mike will check with Dr. Mike to make sure)

Food Planning - New Year

• Figure out each persons daily needs
• Design menus
• Menu needs food for easy days, hard days, quick days, and slow days
• Menu should have variety and include meals satisfying different needs based on the kind of day
• Divide dinner menus amongst ourselves giving each person responsibility over several meals for everyone
• Food should be made from scratch and dried for maximum deliciousness
• Food Allergies?
  • Laura: none
  • Champagne: none
  • Duncan: none
  • Jeff: milk products (especially cheese)

Insurances Coverage - New Year

• Basic Emergency & Medical Insurance through The Cooperators as MEC members
  • Cost: $53.01/individual for 1 month ($1.75 x 30 days)
  • Optional plans (trip interruption, Cancellation, Accidental Death & Dismemberment) available.

• GEO Search and Rescue (SAR) Benefit
  • Cost: US$13.95/SPOT (annual)
  • Terms & Conditions

• GEOS MEDIVAC+
  • Cost: US$67.50/individual for 1 month (US$2.25 x 30 days)
  • Terms & Conditions

Gear

Personal

Skis

• 1 pair of Touring Skis
• 1 pair of Ski Boots
• 1 pair of Ski Crampons
• 1 pair of Ski Poles – can also be used as trekking poles
• 1 pair of Climbing Skins
• 1 Shovel
• 1 Avalanche Probe
• 1 skiing sled – may come free with glacier flight
  • Champagne + Laura: talked to Pete Hudson and has two spare sleds we can use.
• 1 Expedition Duffle Bag – for travelling and for the sled

Mountaineering

• 1 Expedition Backpack (+80L)
• Compression Stuff Sacks - For clothes, gear & caches.
• 2 Emergency Hand warmers and Toe Warmers – just in case…
• Trash Compactor bag(s) – tough, heavy bag(s) with many uses
• 1 lightweight ice axe w/ leash – General mountaineering tool.
• 1 pair of crampons – Compatible w/ ski boots (Tele or AT) and overboots
• 1 climbing helmet
• Accessory Cord – for prussiks and other rigging (ie: sleds)
• 1 alpine Climbing Harness
• 2 prussiks
• 2 small locking biners
• 1 large locking biner
• 1 double length sling
• 2 non-lockers biners
• Pulley – for crevasse rescue and rigging (little, light, cheap)
• Picket(s)
• Ice Screw(s) – and v-threader
• Webbing
• 1 Ascender – One right or left-handed. May be optional, there is a section of fixed ropes we could use at the headwall.
  • Tibloc??
• 1 Camera gear – light and simple, we probably don’t all need it
• American money - Lots of good gear deals to be found on Denali

Footwear

• 1 pair of fully insulated overboots – must work with crampons, need to check if they work with Tele-boots (40Below)
• 1 pair of gaiters – for lower on the mountain
• 2 pairs of Heavyweight Socks
• 2 pairs of liner Socks
• 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Socks
• 1 pair of Camp Booties. MEC good but Western Mountaineering are awesome. Need to add thin closed cell foam as footbed for extra insulation.

Technical Clothing

• 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Top
• 1 Light coloured lightweight Long Underwear Bottom
  • synthetic or wool. Good for hot days lower on the glacier, or for layering with the heavyweight on the upper mountain
• 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Top – synthetic or wool
• 1 Heavyweight Long Underwear Bottom – synthetic or wool
• 2 (or more) pairs of underwear - boxers or briefs.
• 1 Soft Shell Jacket w/ hood – midweight or heavyweight
• 1 Soft Shell Pants – midweight or heavyweight
• 1 Hard Shell jacket w/ hood – waterproof, breathable
• 1 Hard Shell Pants – waterproof, breathable or not
• 1 Down Jacket or Parka – fit over insulation layers
• 1 Down Pants or Insulated Synthetic Pant – to fit over insulation layers

Headwear

• 1 Toque – should cover ears
• 2 Balaclavas (and/or merino Buff?)
  • 1 lightweight
  • 1 heavyweight to layer
• 1 Sunhat/sunshield
• 1 Nose Guard
• 1 Bandana
• 1 Glacier Glasses – 100% UVA and UVB, w/ side covers
• 1 Ski Goggles – 100% UVA and UVB

Handwear

• 1 pair of Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves
• 1 pair of Expedition Weight Gloves – with medium or heavy weight soft shell liner
• 1 pair of Expedition Weight Mitts – for when gloves aren’t good enough
• 1 pair of Lightweight Synthetic Gloves - for ski touring and sun protection
• 1 pair of Vapour Barrier Gloves - It's freakin' cold.

Sleeping

• 1 Expedition Sleeping Bag – -30*C rating or better
• 1 Compression Sack - For Sleeping Bag
• 1 Vapour Barrier Liner - prevents condensation in sleeping bag
• 1 or 2 Sleeping Pad(s) – Closed cell foam or inflatable (or both)
• 1 Eyemask - It's bright 24/7 up there.
• 1 Pillow stuff sack (optional)
• 1 headlamp (if in snowcave)

Toiletry

• 1 Toothbrush
• 1 tube of toothpaste (for 30 days)
• Dental floss
• TP (for 30 days)
• 1 lighter
• 1 Hand Sanitizer
• Sunscreen +30 SPF (for 30 days)
• 1 Lip balm w/ +30 SPF
• 1 Nail clipper
• 1 Hand moisturizer w/ Aloe
• Baby wipes - Individually packaged s.t. they can be warmed up before use.
• 1 Deodorant (optional)
• 1 Pee Funnel – if you’re a girl (ie: Freshette)
• 1 Pee Bottle – Wide mouth (for obvious reasons…), marked so you don’t drink from it

Cooking

• 1 Bowl/measuring cup (i.e. GSI Fair Share Mug)
• 1 insulated EVA closed foam for bowl/measuring cup
• 1 spoon (or spork)
• 1 small knife (or multitool)
• 2 Water Bottles – Wide mouth to avoid freezing (ie: Nalgene)
• 2 Water Bottle Parkas – insulated to prevent freezing (i.e. Outdoor Research or 40 Below)

Travelling (Road Trip)

• Travel Clothes – clean clothes to wear before and after the expedition
• Backpack or small duffel – for travelling or to store personal stuff in Talkeetna while climbing
• 1 Headlamp – mostly for drive up, there’s sun around the clock in the Arctic
• Passport - We're crossing the border

First Aid

• TBD

Group

Mountaineering

• Large Compression Sacks – for making caches
• Ropes – probably 1 half, maybe 2
  • Champagne: 30m x 8mm Beal Rando twin rope and 2 70m x 8mm Mammut Pheonix twin ropes (all Dry treated)
  • Jeff: 60m 8mm rope
• Wands

Sleeping

• 2 4-Season Expedition Tents
  • Champagne - MWH Trango 2
• 2 12+ 1' Aluminum snow stakes per tent
• 2 flood tent EVA closed cell foam pad (3 mm (1/8') thickness)
  • Intuition or 40Below

Navigation

• 1 GPS
• 1 SPOT Satellite Messenger (Champagne)
  • Need to look into getting GEOS coverage.
• 4 Radios – each person should have one
• Batteries – for everything, for 3 weeks
• 1 Solar charger (Champagne)
• 1 compass w/ inclinometer
• 1 altimeter
• 4 whistles - one each
• Maps
  • USGS Mount McKinley A-3
  • NatGeo Mt Denali Recreational Map (Champagne)
• Guidebook(s)
  • Denali's West Buttress - A Climber's Guide to Mount McKinley's Classic Route by Colby Coombs.
  • A Punters Guide to Succeeding (or not) on Denali’s West Buttress

Cooking

• 1 Cooking tent
  • Black Diamond Mega Light Shelter (Champagne)
  • 4 1' Aluminum Snow Stakes
• 3 High-Altitude Stoves
  • Champagne: 1 MSR XGK EX stove
  • Jeff: 1 MSR WhisperLite stove
  • Duncan: 1 MSR XGK EX Stove
• Lighters
  • Champagne: 1 Primus Ignition Steel Fire Starter
• 1 MSR Heat Exchanger (Champagne)
• 3 MSR Windscreens
  • Champagne: 1
• 3 Pots
  • Champagne: Primus Etapower 2.1 L pot & MSR Exo 2 Pot set
• 2 MEC Hot Pot Cookwear insulator (Champagne)
• 3 stove snow platforms
  • Champagne: 1 Wilderness Concepts MSR WhisperLite snow platform
• White Gas - Quantity TBD
  • Empty 2L pop bottles - Quantity TBD (White gas will be procured at base camp on the glacier.
• 1 GSI Compact Scraper (Champagne)
• 1 Large capacity (10L) water bladder
• 1 Black plastic bag for snow melting
• 1 Pristine ClO2 60ml Water Treatment (1 SteriPEN Journey - Champagne ?)

First Aid

Drugs

Analgesics

• Ibuprofen (Motrin, 400mg) - For muscle aches, inflammations and fever - cause water retention, which may aggravate AMS & HAPE
• Aspirin (650mg) - For fever or headaches

Antimicrobial Preparations

• Cephalexin (Keflex, 500mg) - Antibiotic used to treat staphylococcal and streptococcal skin and soft-tissue inflections and urinary tract infections.

Gastroinstestinal Medications

• Loperamide (Imodium, 2mg) - Helps control diarrhea.

Cardiac and Respiratory Agents

• Acetazolamide (Diamox, 125 mg) - Reduces severity of AMS symptoms & provides sleep relief.
• Dexamethasone (Decadron, 4 mg) - For treatment of severe AMS and HACE, but doesn't promote acclimatization as Acetazolmanide.
• Nifedipine (Procardia & Adalat, 30mg) - Reduces the incidence of HAPE.

Others

• Cyclizine (Marezine, 50 mg) - Antihistamine drug to treat allergic reactions and motion sickness
• Personal Medication

Bandages Material

• 4 Non-adherent Sterile gauze pads, 3" x 4"
• 8 Sterile gauze pads, 4" squares, Pkg./2
• 8 Sterile gauze pads, 2" squares, Pkg./2
• 2 Sterile Eye Pads
• 2 Sterile Conforming Gauze, 3"
• 20 Adhesive Bandage, 1" x 3"
• 10 Adhesive Bandage, Knuckle

Bleeding

• 3 Pairs of Nitrile Gloves
• 3 Hand Wipes
• 1 Trauma Pad, 8" x 10"
• 1 Trauma Pad, 5" x 9"

Blister/Burn

• 2 Spenco Second Skin (Large Oval)
• 6 Moleskin, 4" squares
• 1 Molefoam, 5" x 6"
• 1 Aloe Vera Gel w/ Lidocaine, 1 oz
• 1 roll of Athletic tape

CPR

• 1 CPR Face Shield, Laerdal

Dental

• 1 Temporary Cavity Filling Mixture

Fracture/Sprain

• 1 Elastic Tensor Band w/ Velcro, 3"
• 1 Elastic Tensor Band w/ Velcro, 2"
• 1 SAM Split, 4" x 36"
• 2 Triangular Bandages

Instruments

• 1 Surgical forceps & tweezers
• 1 Oral Thermometer
• 1 EMT Shears, 4"
• 3 Safety pins
• 1 Pencil
• 1 Magnifying glass
• 1 Penlight
• 1 Sterile Disposable Scalpel w/ #11 blade
• 1 Sterile 20cc Syringe w/ 18 Gauge tip
• Plastic Oropharyngeal airway(s)
• Tongue blades
• Zip-Lock bags

Medical Information

• 1 Patient Assessment Form
• 1 Instruction list for all drugs
• 1 Instruction list for more complicated bandaging supplies
• Books(?)
  • Photocopied pages from Medicine for Mountaineering & Other Wilderness Activities (6th Ed.)
  • NOLS - Wilderness Medicine
  • Backcountry First Aid & Extended Care (5th Ed.)
• 1 Accident Flowchart

Wound Care

• 10 Antiseptic wipes
• 3 Tincture of Benzoin Topical Adhesive
• 3 Povidone Iodine, 0.75 oz
• 2 Butterfly (Steri-) strips, 1/4" x 4", Pkg./10
• 4 Sterile Cotton Tip Applicators
• 1 roll of Porous Adhesive tape, 2" width
• Wound Antiseptic (Betadine) - 2 to 4 ounces

Entertainment

• 1 deck of cards (micro or Freedom of the hills (Champagne) ?)
• 1 micro Chess board
• 1 micro checkers board
• 1 iPod w/ speakers
• Books (War and Peace-style)
• 1 Duncan
• Laura wants to draw a scrabble board on her mat

Repair Kits

• Voile straps - Length & Quantity TBD
• 1 medium roll of duct tape
• 1 large multitool
• 1 mini screwdriver bit holder
  • 2 #3 Pozidriv bits (Champagne)
  • 1 large flathead bit
  • 1 small flathead bit
  • 1 regular Philips bit
  • 1 Torx T10 mini star drive bit (for Dynafit heel top plate)
• 6' of bailing wire
• 1 ski sled kit
• 10' of 2mm accessory cord
• 1 lighter
• 1 file (sharping crampons)
• 1 p-tex stick (Champagne)
• 2 silver/black sharpies
• 3' of elastic cord
• 1 small voltmeter (for solar charger)
• 1 CR2032 battery (for wristwatch)

Ski repairs

G3 bindings

• 1 G3 TARGA/TARGA Ascent backcountry kit (Laura)
• 2 G3 binding screws

Dynafit bindings

• 1 complete Dynafit Vertical ST spare binding
• 1 Dynafit Vertical ST Volcano (plastic heel riser)
• 1 rubber tube for Dynafit pulks (Scarpa F3 boots)
• 2 Dynafit binding screws (Champagne)
• 1 tube of 5 min epoxy (Champagne)
• 2 popsicle sticks (mixing epoxy)

Ski poles

• 1 BD spare ski pole (Champagne - BD Expedition)
• 1 BD spare ski basket (Champagne - BD 3/4 Powder Basket)
• 2 2" ski pole size hose clamps (Champagne)
• 1 6" ski pole section (hacksawed) (Champagne)

Skins

• 1 G3 Tail
• 1 BD Tail
• 2 BD Loops (sizes?)
• 1 BD Skin Globstopper (Champagne)
• 1 speedy stitcher

Boots

• 2 6" hose clamps
• 4 walk mode switches
  • 1 for Scarpa F3
  • 1 for ??
  • 1 for ??
  • 1 for ??
• 2 washer/nut/bolt combo - TBD (for blown ankle rivets)

Clothing repairs

• Gore-Tex patches (Champagne)
• 1 post-mydriatic sunglasses
• 1 Exped Expedition Sewing Kit

Tent repairs

• 2 spare tent pole segment (1 for each tent)
• 1 tube (60 ml, 0.5 oz) of Seam Grip Seam Sure Seam Sealer
• 2 tent pole sleeves (1 for each tent)

Sleeping repairs

• 6 sticky patches
• 8 non-sticky patches
• 1 textile glue
• 2 Therm-A-Rest Hot Bond Adhesive
• 1 Therm-A-Rest Repair Kit Instructions
• 1 spare Therm-A-Rest valve

Cooking repairs

• 1 MSR WhisperLite Expedition Service kit (Champagne)
• 1 MSR XGK EX Expedition Service kit (Champagne)
• 1 MSR Stove Annual Maintenance kit (Champagne)
• 2 extra bottle caps (Champagne)
• 1 MSR fuel pump

or

• 2 extra bottle caps
• 2 stove tool
• 4 control valve O-rings
• 5 fuel tube O-rings
• 3 fuel bottle O-rings
• 2 pump seal
• 2 fuel jets (?)
• 1 check valve
• 1 flame spreader
• 1 dip tube
• 1 pump cup oil
• 2 safety pins
• 1 shaker jet
• 1 fuel tube bushing
• 1 pump cup
• 1 jet cleaning wire
• 2 Instruction sheets
  • 1 MSR Whisperlite
  • 1 MSR XGK

Backpack repairs

• 2 waist belt buckles
• 1 small buckle
• 1 dee clip strap
• 2 draw strip clamps
• 20' of shoe lace (or 3mm accessory cord)

Food

Requirements

Road Trip (Vancouver -> Denali)

• 4 Breakfasts
• 4 Lunches
• 4 Dinners

Alpine (Denali)

• 21 Breakfasts
• 21 Lunches
• 21 Dinners

NOLS Winter Rationing System

Food Category	2.5 ppppd	21 days	Rounded
Breakfast	.38	7.98	8
Dinner	.40	8.40	8.5
Cheese	.28	5.88	6
Trail foods	.49	10.29	10.5
Sugar & fruit drinks	.18	3.78	4
Soups, bases & desserts	.19	3.99	4
Milk, eggs, margarine, cocoa	.33	6.93	7
Meat & substitutes	.15	3.15	3
Total weight	2.3	50.4	51

Note: ppppd = pounds per person per day

Breakfast:
Cream of Wheat, Rice or Rye, Oatmeal, hominy grits, Couscous, Granola, Muesli, Cold cereal, Pancake mix, dried fruits

Dinner:
Pasta, Instant Bean, Instant Lentils, Falafel, Barley, Hummus, Couscous, Bulgur, Instant Potato Flakes, Instant Rice, Textured vegetable protein, tortillas.

Cheese:
Farmer, Jack, Cheddar, Swiss, Mozzarella, Parmesan, Smoked Gouda.

Trail foods:
Nuts, Seeds, Dried fruits, crackers, corn & soy nuts, cookies, energy bars, candy.

Sugar & powdered fruit drinks:
Brown & white sugar, lemonade, Tang, Apple Cider, Gatorade, Nuun, hot chocolate, Jell-O, tea, Kool-Aid, Crystal Light.

Soups, Bases, Dried Vegetables & Desserts:

• Soups: Knorr, No Name, Lipton, Cup-of-soups, Ramen, bulk (chicken, beef, vegetable)
• Bases/broth packets/broth cubes: powdered tomato base, packaged sauce w/ seasoning mixes
• Dried Vegetables: mixed vegetable, mushrooms, peppers, carrot, tomatoes, peas, etc.
• Desserts: cheesecake mix, brownie mix, Gingerbread mix, carrot cake mix, instant pudding, gelatin mix

Milk, Eggs, Margarine & Cocoa:
Powdered Whole Milk, powdered eggs, margarine, cocoa, flavored coffee drinks, Coffee,

Meat & substitutes:
Sliced pepperoni, cooked bacon bits (real), sausage crumbles, beef jerky, Tempeh, nut butters.

Spices:
Salt, Pepper, Garlic Powder, Chili powder, Curry, Cinnamon, Spike, Oregano, Basil, Cumin powder, powdered mustard, dill weed, Cayenne.

Liquids:
Oil, Vinegar, Soy sauce, Vanilla, Tabasco/hot sauce.

Supplements:
Multivitamin, glucosamine (optional), cold assist (optional)

Geoff

Average daily consumption

• 380g Breakfast
• XXXg Lunch
• 400g Dinner

Alpine Breakfasts

• TBD

Alpine Lunches

• TBD

Alpine Dinners

• TBD

Duncan

Average daily consumption

• 380g Breakfast
• XXXg Lunch
• 400g Dinner

Alpine Breakfasts

• TBD

Alpine Lunches

• TBD

Alpine Dinners

• TBD

Laura

Average daily consumption

• 380g Breakfast
• XXXg Lunch
• 400g Dinner

Alpine Breakfasts

• TBD

Alpine Lunches

• TBD

Alpine Dinners

• TBD

Champagne

Average daily consumption

• 380g Breakfast
• XXXg Lunch
• 400g Dinner

Alpine Breakfasts

• TBD

Alpine Lunches

• TBD

Alpine Dinners

• TBD

Road Trip (Denali -> Vancouver)

• 4 Breakfasts
• 4 Lunches
• 4 Dinners

UBC Human Kinetics Research

High Altitude Acute Mountain Sickness Genetic Susceptibility

• Duncan, Jeff and Champagne have participated in an ongoing AMS susceptibility study at UBC.
• The researchers are interested in assisting the team with medical backup in return to doing some medical during the trip.
• Extremely useful for grant applications.

1^st Meeting - January 6^th, 2011

Researchers would like us to:

• Conduct daily 15 min HRM routing for everyone.
• Conduct daily Lake Louise AMS criteria test w/ postural instability balance test w/ foam rubber pad.
• Have a miniature finger tip O2 saturation sensor connected to an iPhone/iPod.
• Daily transmission of capture data from Netbook to cellular network (reception up to Camp 2)
• Undergo MRI (TBD) and physical testing at UBC pre- & post-trip
• They'll provide all the technical equipment, w/ perhaps the solar charger to power everything.

All team members are fine in participating.

Grants/fund raisers

MEC - Expedition Support

• Done and awaiting outcome - Champagne

ACC - Jen Higgins Memorial Fund

• Laura did it.

Fund raisers

• Jeff & Duncan will look into it.