With a beautiful March 23rd weekend forecast predicting better ski conditions up high, our small but mighty “Steep Lines at Steep Creek” group of four (Alex Barth, Flavia Caprez, Ana Ciocoiu, and myself, Erik Reimers) made the decision to switch plans from the Steep Creek drainage to the Cerise Creek drainage where the famous Keith’s Hut is located. This would give us access to the higher 2700m peaks of the Joffre group. In particular, the NW face of Matier, being one of the ‘king lines of the coast’ as described by Alex, would make for an excellent objective.
Map of the Cerise Creek drainage, Keith’s Hut area.
After a usual amount of Friday Vancouver faff, we headed north arriving at the trailhead for 6:30pm with an hour of sunlight left. After crossing the dilapidated Cayoosh Creek bridge (which was in worse condition than Alex remembered previously), the ~2hr approach was quite straightforward with consistent snow from the car. Arriving at the hut in the dark with a light dusting of snow coming down, we quickly ate our dinners and snuggled up with the other ~10 people there that night.
Flavia making her way across the dilapidated Cayoosh Creek bridge.
The welcoming glow of Keith’s Hut with a woodstove roaring and some fresh snow coming down.
We enjoyed a lazy morning and set our sights on Saturday’s objective: the smaller, less technical, Vantage Peak with its north facing bowls. After gaining the west ridge, the wind-swept snow made for difficult ski travel for Ana and myself as we did not have ski crampons. Ana called it quits when the opportunity arose to ski back with another party we had met along the way while I switched to boot crampons. For the final summit push, Flavia and Alex also ditched their skis and switched to boot crampons. For the ski decent we agreed on a ~35 degree north facing bowl and were greeted with fantastic “dust on crust” conditions, with a couple inches of delicious pow on top of a supportive crust. Ecstatic over the great skiing and still early in the day, we popped the skins back on and did two more laps of the other north bowls coming off the ridge.
The crew skinning up and out of the Cerise Creek drainage.
Flavia and Alex heading up the wind swept west ridge of Vantage Peak
Flavia easily cruising up the final summit crux.
Alex and Flavia enjoying the expansive summit views. Mt. Duke behind us. Alex was able to name any mountain I pointed at as far as the eye could see.
Looking back at our delicious ski tracks made us hungry for more.
Heading back to the cabin, we began scheming for tomorrow’s objective, Mt. Matier. Although the forecast called for the best snow to be found on north facing slopes above 1900m, it also warned that the pesky persistent weak layer (PWL) may still be preserved on this same aspect and elevation. We decided to be cautiously optimistic and planned to head up to at least the Matier-Joffre col to check it out. After mucking our dinners as fast as possible due to incredible hunger, Flavia taught us a popular Swiss card game: Tichu. Let it be known, final score: 1000 points Erik and Ana, 950 points Flavia and Alex. We then headed to bed with 5:30am alarms set.
The crew having a blast eating snacks and playing cards by the woodstove.
After some minor morning faff having to melt snow via camp stove for drinking water, we headed up through the trees and onto the Anniversary Glacier. As forecasted, we had a perfect bluebird day with similar ‘dust on crust’ conditions from yesterday. At this point, with the glacier looking very benign, we agreed to split up into pairs with Alex and myself looking to jump ahead and attempt the peak.
Flavia and myself enjoying the first light of the day.
The crew heading over to the glacier with our sights on Mt. Matier in the back.
Alex and I raced up the glacier and began the long boot pack up the north face of Mt. Matier following the faint steps of a previous party. However, as we ascended, our hand shear tests showed that a wind slab was present. Although it was well bonded and difficult to release, we stopped to discuss. With the exposure below us, the potential of a PWL, and the current wind direction potentially wind loading our desired NW ski line, we made the fairly easy decision to bail and climb back down.
Alex coming up the glacier with the impressive lower rock walls of Mt. Joffre behind.
Alex starting up the long boot pack on the north face of Mt. Matier with the Matier Glacier spilling out below us.
After down-climbing to reach a point to pop our skis on, we flew down the side of Matier, down the glacier, and down to the creek at top speeds enjoying fantastic spring conditions in a spectacular landscape. Heading back up to the hut we hung out on the front porch sunbathing. It was at this point that I noticed that my water bottle had actually frozen while on the cold north face, which was hard to fathom, now basking in the warm low elevation sun. We packed up our bags and made the ski back down to the car. After a long Sunday drive home filled with Whistler traffic, Squamish dinner, and car accident traffic, we all got home just in time for bed and school the next day.
Photos and text by Erik Reimers.
Alex just reaching the bottom after a terrific ski from the side of Mt. Matier.
Catching the warm spring sun rays as we procrastinate going to back to the city.
Thanks for the trip report. Very nice pictures.