Life’s a Freeze at G1

Trip Dates: September 10 + 14-15th 2024

This year’s G1 did not disappoint with its crazy weather but as with every trip, it started indoors with a pre-trip and ropes skills. We practiced our ascending (and descending) in the Aviary, various knots and hitches, and crevasse rescue systems.

The following weekend we made the short drive up to the Brandywine lower parking lot where the shuttling began. Unfortunately, Hannah Bates’ car fell out of commission on the way up. Brandywine FSR 1 & VOC cars 0. While waiting around, Adam Steele and Katie Sattler had a matching kombucha photo shoot, and Noah Wyse and I learned we had the exact same boot and crampon set up.

As the shuttling took a long time, we decided to start heading up from the trailhead to Brandywine in smaller groups. We quickly ran into a thick fog and played a game of “Choose Your Own Adventure” trying to find the trail. Once we got to the glacier, we all commented on how much it had receded since last year. We then made camp in the howling wind, and rain which turned to freezing rain, then hail and finally snow. Hunkering down people were warming up and trying to dry out in their tents, but a couple of us decided to bag Brandywine Peak since we thought we might as well even if the weather doesn’t get better. Fortunately for us, as we reached the peak, like in a movie, the sky started to clear up and we were welcomed by beautiful views.

Chloe Garzon’s POV

Snippet 1 (The Pain): Everything is cold and wet and our tent is perilously placed upon a spine of rocks cutting into the Brandywine Glacier. My tentmate: Simone Goldberg and I had just finished setting up our tent amidst gailing winds and chilled fingers. I’d heard from a friend that the previous Glacier School also had insanely brutal weather and half of the group had actually bailed rather than spend the night. Finally huddled within the (somewhat) warmer confines of our tent, Simone and I were wondering if this trip would end with the same fate. I had known the weather was going to be bleak on day 1, and had been prepared for some heavy type 2 fun, but my shivering body was having a hard time seeing how this would be considered fun at some point. Somewhere between the heavy body shivering and fantasizing of warm toes, we realized the wind had stopped. We opened the tent and miraculously the weather had cleared. The sun was shining and it was the most beautiful bluebird afternoon to learn some glacier skills. I’ve never been so happy to feel the sun on my skin. We began to gear up and I smiled, soaking in the golden rays between slitted eyes and taking in the views of the now visible glacier framed by indigo blue and snowy peaked mountains in the distance. 

Since the weather quickly turned to a bluebird day, everyone started to get ready for instruction. As we were walking down from the summit, we heard the entire camp calling out Jasper Lincoln’s name as everyone was rounding up. Ironically Jasper had a radio, but no one called him on it. In the meantime, Liam Von Fischer, who was working on his ski turns every month challenge, had boot-packed up just for a couple turns but said that it was very worth it. Ivan Fediaev also took a turn skiing for a couple turns.

Sri Chaitanya and I then started teaching our group how to walk in crampons and in rope teams in addition to ideal vs necessary gear. We went through basic glacier terrain management, and how to swap rope team leaders. With Anton Afanassiev’s, James Kissane’s, Sean McKay’s, and Alain Zhiyanov’s groups, we went over how to make T-slot anchors, how to use pickets as anchors, attempted to find enough snow to teach snow bollards, and more. We then practiced some more crevasse rescue systems by hauling a spare backpack. Jacob Grossbard and Hannah found a very cool ice cave that we then went to check out. Their group also found a very deep crevasse they rappelled into. Afterwards, we headed back for some dinner, mulled wine and hot apple cider.

Chloe’s POV:

Snippet 2 (What is the meaning of life): After an amazing afternoon of learning to walk in crampons (you walk on slippery ice, but you don’t slip), to NEVER step on the glacier rope, ice-axe 101, T-slots, ice screws and hauling systems. Our glacier group (which was quite large due to the merging of two smaller groups) decided to summit Mt. Brandywine for sunset. We hiked up with views of Mt. Fee and spiny dragon back mountain ridges. The other side of the glacier was imposing with deep crevasses that cut through the snow and ice like dark black cheshire cat smiles. We laughed and talked at the top, pondering the meaning of life and taking in the expansive views of mountains which peeked out from the sea of clouds much below us. We hike back for dinner at twilight, head torches on, nimbly scrambling back to where we’d stashed our bags just before the steeper ascent to the summit. Here we had the perfect view of everyone else down at camp getting back from their own learning days and congregating for dinner. Small ants puttering about, a tent city aglow with multi coloured light contrasting the falling night and specks of stars starting to appear above them.

Starry Night PC Brianna Ragsdale

Starry Night PC Brianna Ragsdale

The next morning, many of us woke up early to see the sunrise at the summit of Brandywine. The sunrise did not disappoint! From the summit we looked onto the other side of the Brandywine glacier and saw some huge crevasses, so a couple of groups went to the other side with their groups and did some cool crevasse rescue practice there.

Sunrise views PC Isaac

Sunrise views PC Isaac

Chloe’s POV:
Snippet 3 (We go beyond the col): Our glacier group lead by Lucas Braun, Elizabeth Chu, Ivan Fediaev and Brianna Ragsdale, decided to venture to the other side of the glacier (remember the one with the really imposing crevasses) to practice haul systems and see if we could learn via doing (ie. someone would actually go into the crevasse and we would rescue them). The other side of the glacier was vast, offering more amazing views and more complex terrain. We practiced route finding and navigated the crevasse field ensuring to stay spaced out and crossing crevasses perpendicularly. The ice was beautiful within the deep crevasses, bright sunlight shone into the blue depths eventually fading to black. Aja Ayers gallantly offered to be lowered into one of the crevasses and had an epic time hanging out as the rest of us were scrutinized for our speed, memory and execution of the most efficient hauling system. This side of Brandywine was more protected from the wind, and we all got pretty steamy having to de-layer for the more intense hauling rescue simulations. With the rendezvous time fast approaching, we roped up again to head back across the col to pack up camp and head back down to the cars. It had been a great day, and as we took a short break to remove our crampons before passing over a rock outcrop, we all happily munched on some suspiciously monochromatic sugar laden snacks provided by Ivan. The rest of the walk back was filled with nonsensical stories and laughs. We were leaving the glacier, but not forever. We’d be back, we were glacier people now. 

The second day, Sri and my group decided to head back to the main glacier and let our group practice leading the rope teams. We did more crevasse rescuing practice and went over how to use ice screws in anchors. This time instead of using a bag both Sri and I were hauled by our students. One of the coolest scenarios was when I was hauled out of a huge crevasse with ice waterfalls on three sides. We then did some more exploring and found a crevasse filled with glacial water that was longer than our probes. After finding a good slope, we did some self-arresting practice and played a bit of baseball with our ice axes.

Walking down with sunshine PC Isaac

Walking down with sunshine PC Isaac

Afterwards we headed back to the campground, had a quick lunch/snack, packed up, and headed back down. It was such a sunny and beautiful day that most of us forgot the crazy mini storm we experienced the day before. On my way down I joined Jacob and Hannah in a berry picking adventure. This was probably the first time I felt fuller after a hike than when starting it.

Back at the upper parking lot, the car shuttling faff began. Surprisingly Jeff Motershed was there with his son Devlin who also got some turns meaning that Liam wasn’t the only one with the same idea. Jeff graciously helped with the car shuttling as well. Also Anton was determined to break one of his records on how many people he could fit into his car. He fit ~12 people with multiple heads poking out windows. It definitely made for a good laugh seeing everyone get out of his clown car. Unfortunately, Elias Bowman’s car did not have such a funny fate; right before driving off, his rear car window shattered so we cleaned up all the pieces as best we could. Brandywine FSR 2 & VOC cars 0.

As with many VOC trips, the weekend ended off with dinner at the samosa place in Squamish with everyone a tad sunburnt and ready for more glacial trips!

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3 Responses to Life’s a Freeze at G1

  1. Lucas Braun says:

    A great trip with an excellent survival rate! RIP Steve

  2. Liam Von fischer says:

    Always glad to learn and get those turns in! I wish october turns were as good as brandywine :(

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