TRIP DATES: Nov 1st-3rd, 2024
PARTICIPANTS: Ethan Somji, James Maltman, & Noah Macdonald
The Brian Waddington Hut
This trip report is divided into two sections: an actual TR with details of our shenanigans, and a separate entry with beta on our new* routes.
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*We fully acknowledge that these routes are rather close to the hut and have very possibly been climbed before. We can only propose them as first known ascents, and even then, “known” has to be qualified with “known to us.” Our trip involved going out and climbing lines without any prior beta, and we’re stoked to share them because we think they’re good enough that others should try them too. If they have been climbed before, we’d be very keen to hear about it.
§1 | TRIP SUMMARY
James proposed the idea of chasing mixed gullies from a base camp at the Brian Waddington hut early in the year, and I promised we’d keep an eye on it. When I later proposed running Daughter of Drytool on the weekend of the 2nd-3rd, he pointed out that the weather was too nice and suggested we spend the weekend in the Tolkien range instead. I agreed, and James roped Ethan into the group. Thus the Fellowship was born.
Friday, Nov 1st:
We drove out on Friday after class finished. The Phelix Creek FSR was drivable (without snow) to the summer parking, though the water bars were getting bigger; I counted 18 large water bars and 3 small ones. Some of the water bars may cause trouble for lower clearance vehicles; the bigger ones caused my trailer hitch to hit the ground (I drive a Toyota Rav4). Embarrassingly, we noticed at the trailhead that my car was low on gas: I had forgotten to fill up in Pemberton. We later sent a message on our inReach to Kaylie Robinson to save us by dropping off some gas at the winter parking. Thanks, Kaylie: you’re a lifesaver.
Whoops
The approach itself from the summer parking was straightforward (taking just over 2hrs), though we had to break a bit of trail through fresh snow, which started near the trailhead and got progressively deeper nearer to the hut. Skis were still unnecessary though, and would have hurt more than helped.
Ethan on the approach
We built a fire to dry our gear and witnessed the fearless mice scurry around the floor despite our presence. The efforts of the volunteers who carried all the wood up the previous weekend were much appreciated.
Saturday, Nov 2nd:
We woke up at 8:30am and climbed the NS Couloir (detailed below). Afterwards, we built another fire to dry our gear. Again, the mice were a highlight; we felt impressed as we watched them scurry across the ropes and onto the gear we had hung up to dry. If you bring food, do not trust it to be safe just because it is suspended in the air; it turns out the mice are better climbers than us.
Sunday, Nov 3rd:
Just in case the absence of gas in my car was the product of a problem with the car (and not just my forgetfulness), we decided to start/finish the day earlier so as to be back at the car at a time more reasonable to request a rescue if it refused to drive. We retraced our steps up the bottom section of the NS couloir, and found an appealing-looking mixed pitch on the wall to the right. We climbed it and named it Lembas Bread (details below).
§2 | NEW ROUTE BETA
The Not-so-grand Sorta-central Couloir* (M4-, Steep Snow, 450m)
(abbreviated as NS Couloir)
MP Link: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/127269703/not-so-grand-sorta-central-ns-couloir
From the hut, work your way back around the lake to the 2nd slide path on Mt Shadowfax (~8min walk). Ascend the lower slopes through a talus field, up into the heart of the couloir. As the couloir steepens, it splits into two couloirs; take the (climber’s) right option at the fork.
P1 (M4-): The first pitch starts with an M3 boulder problem. I chose to solo this step, but threw down a rope for Ethan & James. Next, wallow through some steep snow before tackling the M4- crux step. Belay above from a small tree near the right side of the couloir (I supplemented this with a knifeblade piton beside it).
Ethan on the first step of P1
P2 (M2): Above, a thin layer of steep snow hides low-angle chossy mixed (~M2); James prudently protected this with some questionable gear as he excavated the pitch from the unsupportive snow on top. Once this was done, however, I felt comfortable soloing the pitch. More steep snow brings you to granite outcropping on the left. Belay from a two-knifeblade anchor (note: we did not leave the pitons in situ. Bring your own).
James leading P2
P3 (One move of M3): More snow brings you to where the couloir broadens. Continue upwards towards an obvious weakness up and right. One tricky mixed step interrupts otherwise straightforward snow wallowing; Ethan and I soloed this part, but James wisely asked for a rope. Trees offer many options for a solid belay.
Further up, there are smaller sections where you can increase difficulty by avoiding the path of least resistance and climbing mixed “boulder problems.” This makes the climb noticeably more engaging and enjoyable. More terrain of this sort (and more snow wallowing) leads to the summit of what Gaia labels “Peak 2132” (Coordinates: 50.63735, -122.67338) — a subsummit of Shadowfax. To descend, make your way towards the true summit; the low point on the ridge offers easy access to the left-side branch of the couloir system. Walk down the couloir; it offers little by way of difficulty, and no rappels are necessary.
Alternatively, a motivated climber could traverse/ascend to the true summit via another obvious couloir. We declined to do this, having topped out the logical extension of our chosen line.
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*The NS Couloir is very close to the hut and would certainly be skiable in proper winter conditions. We are confident that it has been travelled many times before. What we do not know, however, is whether it has been climbed in mixed conditions. If the couloir has a pre-existing name (or if you know someone that has skied/climbed it) we would love to know. The name we gave the route is mostly for our own reference (hence why it’s a silly descriptive name and not a proper LoTR-themed name); we are not so naive as to think that the couloir was untouched ground and that we have legitimate naming rights.
Lembas Bread (M4, ~10m)
My lead on the FA of Lembas Bread
Approx Coordinates: 50.63539, -122.67469 (Elevation: 1894m)
Recommended Rack: Single rack of cams 0.2-3, medium-sized nuts, lots of slings.
On the first notable cliff on the right-hand side of the NS Couloir (a significant distance before the fork), an obvious corner crack looked like it might offer reasonable mixed terrain. Leading the line took significant effort, as it required significant snow-excavating to reveal pick placements, turf, and gear placements. But the crack left little to be desired; it took cams and nuts very well, and made for some satisfying tool placements. Turf on ledges offered other opportunities to get good sticks. If more fully frozen, the grade may be easier; in colder temps this would be an amazing Scottish-style turf route.
This was the only pitch we climbed on Sunday because we needed to leave early to get back to Vancouver. Despite the pitch only being 10m, we all had so much fun that we left feeling completely satisfied. Hence the name: Lembas bread. Three (out of three) stars: very worthwhile at the grade.
Well done post