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Tag Archives: Alpine Climbing
The Art of Bailing
CONTENT WARNING: This article involves discussions of death in the mountains. Skip section 1 to avoid the heaviest discussion of the subject. §1 | INTRODUCTION People often describe certain skills as an art. In this sense, there is an art … Continue reading
Posted in Climb, Other, Ski, Trip Reports
Tagged Alpine Climbing, bail, climbing, essay, ice climbing, philosophy, Ski Mountaineering, ski touring, trad
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Yamophilia
Yamophilia /jæmˈoʊfɪliə/ (noun) A love of or obsession with the mountain officially known as Mount Laurie (better known as Mount Yamnuska: a name borrowed from the Stoney Nakoda name Îyâmnathka, meaning “flat-faced mountain”). Yamnuska (abbreviated as “Yam”) is the birthplace … Continue reading
Posted in Climb, Trip Reports
Tagged Alberta, Alpine Climbing, choss, climbing, Epic, rock climbing, Rockies, Thunderstorm, trad, Type 1 fun, type 2, type 2 fun, Yamnuska
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What makes an alpine climb a classic? [Revised January 2025]
Introduction This essay and collection of trip reports were originally published in VOCJ66 (2023-24, pp. 62-80). Since publication, I’ve had a chance to refine the ideas in the essay portion; I now think that my previous category of an “aesthetic classic” … Continue reading
Posted in Climb, Ski, Trip Reports
Tagged Alpine Climbing, Banff, Bugaboo Provincial Park, classics, Epic, essay, North Cascades, Rockies, Ski Mountaineering, ski touring, trad, Type 1 fun, type 2 fun
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The Fellowship of the Sling (First Ascents in the Tolkien Range)
TRIP DATES: Nov 1st-3rd, 2024 PARTICIPANTS: Ethan Somji, James Maltman, & Noah Macdonald This trip report is divided into two sections: an actual TR with details of our shenanigans, and a separate entry with beta on our new* routes. — … Continue reading
Posted in Climb, Huts, Trip Reports
Tagged Alpine Climbing, BC, Brian Waddington Hut, first ascent, mixed climbing, Phelix, Phelix Hut, shadowfax, Snow, Tolkien Range, Type 1 fun, Waddington Hut, Winter Climbing
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The Greenwood Jones [V, TD, 5.10, 1300m] on the North Face of Mt Temple
§1 | INTRODUCTION The North Face of Mt Temple provides one of the more dramatic views along Highway 1. It rises ~1300m from base to summit, providing a world-class backdrop for visitors to the Lake Louise area. Often likened to the … Continue reading
Posted in Climb, Trip Reports
Tagged Alpine Climbing, climbing, Epic, Glacier, Lake Louise, Lightning, Mount Temple, Rockies, summer, Thunderstorm, trad
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Mt Tupper South Rib Integral and The Hermit Gendarme
Trip Date: July 9th-10th, 2024 Participants: Noah Macdonald, Austin Goodine 1 | CONTEXT After climbing the NW Ridge of Mt. Macdonald, the South Rib of Tupper was next on my list. Despite receiving the same grade (5.8) in the guidebook, … Continue reading
Posted in Climb, Trip Reports
Tagged Alpine Climbing, Fast and Light, Rogers Pass, trad
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Mt Macdonald Northwest Ridge Integral
Trip Date: June 21st-22nd, 2024 Participants: Noah Macdonald, Seton Kriese 1 | CONTEXT Rogers Pass holds a special place in my heart. Soaring quartzite summits and ridges hold beautiful alpine climbing and scrambling in the summer and the transitional … Continue reading
Posted in Climb, Trip Reports
Tagged Alpine Climbing, Fast and Light, Rogers Pass, trad
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A Ski Descent of Mt Robson (Kain Face via the Patterson Couloir)
Trip Date: May 7th-10th, 2024 Participants: Noah Macdonald, Charles-Antoine Leblanc Summitting and skiing Mount Robson has been a dream of mine for longer than I can remember. On May 9th, I finally made that dream come true. Brevity is a virtue … Continue reading
Posted in Climb, Ski, Trip Reports
Tagged Alpine Climbing, alpine start, Epic, Mount Robson, overnight, Rockies, Ski Mountaineering, ski touring, Spring touring
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A First Foray in Patagonia Pt.2
Part 2 of 2. A long trip report detailing our time climbing in the Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia. You should read part one here first: https://www.ubc-voc.com/2023/10/03/a-first-foray-in-patagonia-pt-1 January 30-31: Mermoz misadventure We hiked back up to Piedra Negra, swapping our approach shoes … Continue reading
!GURI |AIB (The White Streak)
Learning to Route Develop and Big Wall Climb in Spitzkoppe, Namibia Preparatory Ramblings Preparatory Ramblings It has taken me some time to submit this report. On my return from Namibia, I was greeted by a series of emergencies … Continue reading
Posted in Climb, Trip Reports
Tagged adventure, africa, Alpine Climbing, alpine start, awesome people, backcountry, beast, big wall climbing, bigwall, birthday, Climb, climbing, development, Epic, Expediation, expedition, expert, Face, faff, first ascent, First summit, First-Time, gong show, Hauling, instruction, instructional, Intermediate, international, intro, leading, multi-pitch, multiday, namibia, near-miss, Neil Mackenzie, Neil Mackenzie Adventure Grant, Neil MacKenzie Memorial Fund, new route, NMAG, overnight, Photo Contest, Photo Essay, portaledge, Rock, rock climbing, route development, runout, slab, slab-master, Slog, slog-fest, smal group, Small Group, So many new stuff, stars, story, stupidity, sunny, teaching, the white streak, type 2, type 2 fun, wildlife
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